Fitting Doors

RMS

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I’m want to fit oak veneered doors to a Victorian terrace property. All the original doors have been replaced with cheap modern doors so they need to go!

The measurements of each frame is around height (2020mm) width (810-815mm) and thickness 40mm.

I can source doors that suit these measurements, however, the thickness is 35mm. Can I set the doors back 5mm in the casing or will that look stupid? I can’t take the door stops off as they a rebated into the casing.

The other option is to go to the next width of 826mm and height of 2040mm which will give me the 40mm, but I’m not really keen on taking a large amount off the length of the door both sides and the height.

Any help with this or ideas is greatly appreciated, thanks
 
The 35mm will be absolutely fine.
But you will most likely have to be prepared to plane here and there on the doors as every one of the door lining/cases will be different and not square no doubt
 
or use a track saw which I find is a much easier and better tool for trimming doors.
Yes not a regular DIY tool though that's the problem.
If needed they could buy a cheap plane for £30.
I fitted a load of oak veneer doors and made myself a stand to slot them in which helped a lot when using the plane. Some sections just needed 3mm in on the top or somewhere.
 
Yes not a regular DIY tool though that's the problem.

If you are serious at DIY, a very worthwhile investment that opens the door to working much more easily with e.g. melamine faced chip
 
If I can interject. I read door linings with a 6ft and a 2ft spirit level and a framing square.

Put the 6ft on the hinge side "that's where I take my datum from" i then put the framing square against the 6ft to check the square of the head to the hinge side, often it isnt square. I then put the 6ft against the "keep" side of the lining, often the bottom of the lining kicks in. I then put the 2ft on the floor/carpet in the opening to check for level and then put the level from the hinge side across the opening path of the door to see if the floor is going up hill, then I measure the opening of the lining with a tape measure.

The idea is to cut the door 2mm less than the lining shape on the width and get the length very close.

Then I get some glazing packers wedge the door in the lining tight to the hinge side, im looking for a maximum 2mm gap all the way round. You can use other packers to trace the lining shape on to the door.

Hanging doors perfectly takes alot of experience.

Don't forget the leading edge!
 
If I can interject. I read door linings with a 6ft and a 2ft spirit level and a framing square.

Put the 6ft on the hinge side "that's where I take my datum from" i then put the framing square against the 6ft to check the square of the head to the hinge side, often it isnt square. I then put the 6ft against the "keep" side of the lining, often the bottom of the lining kicks in. I then put the 2ft on the floor/carpet in the opening to check for level and then put the level from the hinge side across the opening path of the door to see if the floor is going up hill, then I measure the opening of the lining with a tape measure.

The idea is to cut the door 2mm less than the lining shape on the width and get the length very close.

Then I get some glazing packers wedge the door in the lining tight to the hinge side, im looking for a maximum 2mm gap all the way round. You can use other packers to trace the lining shape on to the door.

Hanging doors perfectly takes alot of experience.

Don't forget the leading edge!
Yesci used the glazing packers too. They are actually a very useful for loads of DIY jobs.
I also have trend door lifter that works like a mastic gun.
Also really liked the hingetight screws
 
Another tip...

When you offer the door into the lining tear of a bit of masking tape and put it on the face of the door on the hinge side, I put an X on the tape. Its easy to accidentally hinge the wrong side of the door.
 
Yesci used the glazing packers too. They are actually a very useful for loads of DIY jobs.
I also have trend door lifter that works like a mastic gun.
Also really liked the hingetight screws
Glazing packers are great for scribing.

A chap on site a couple of days ago mentioned the trend door lifter and now you, I must buy one, thanks.

Im a bit of a screw snob, I only buy Reissers, ive tried other brands, mostly because of the cost of Reissers, but I always end up going back to Reissers.

Screw Heads, PZ1,2,3 and PH1,2,3 and Flat Head of varying sizes which thankfully arent used that much anymore, but i have absolutely no time for Star Head Screws, unless its a dishwasher or oven, theres always some muppet on site that wants to buck the trend and use Star Heads everywhere, I hate them, does it show :giggle:
 
Glazingini packers are great for scribing.

A chap on site a couple of days ago mentioned the trend door lifter and now you, I must buy one, thanks.

Im a bit of a screw snob, I only buy Reissers, ive tried other brands, mostly because of the cost of Reissers, but I always end up going back to Reissers.

Screw Heads, PZ1,2,3 and PH1,2,3 and Flat Head of varying sizes which thankfully arent used that much anymore, but i have absolutely no time for Star Head Screws, unless its a dishwasher or oven, theres always some muppet on site that wants to buck the trend and use Star Heads everywhere, I hate them, does it show :giggle:
It may not apply to the small risers not looked but the cutter section takes up too much of the screw thread when using small 1 inch or so screws for the hinges.
I like the hinge tight ones because they are made for hinges and I also like the very shiny heads which perfectly match the Grade 7 Ball Bearing Hinges finish.
I have this one
 

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