Fitting flush hinges

[msmsm]

Hi,

I am building a set of bifold doors. I have done a test install to prove the concept and now have the doors off for making good and neatening up my work. One thing that I need to do is adjust my flush hinges, specifically these.
Hinges
Currently I am packing out the gap between the doors to 16mm, then measuring the width of the door, taking off the width of the leaf and then adding 2mm to get a 2mm gap either side of the knuckle when I position the hinge. Is there an easier way to get a conistent gap either side of the hinge and all the hinges (3) aligned centrally? First time doing this (well second if you consider I did it fir the test fit) and wondering if I am missing a trick?

 

[big-all]

are these face mounted or side/frame mounted ??

 

[msmsm]

Side mounted. I think. They go on the edges of the door (which is 44mm thick) and are not recessed.

 

[big-all]

I don't normally pack out on a new set up as it's to rectify problems or mistakes .
You just use the metal thickness as the gap and make sure the screws are the correct size so the heads are flush otherwise the doors will spring on closure then you have to tap the opposite door edge with a block and hammer to bed the screw heads into the timber they face on closure

 

[msmsm]

Okay, so just slide another hinge between the knuckle and the door to get consistency? Thanks for your help!

 

[big-all]

Another point, the way the knuckle sits matters to the doors position by around 8mm from frame edge in as much the leaf on the door will open to the opposite side off the knuckle so 8mm to the left or 8mm to the right when open

 

[msmsm]

I'm not sure I understand that? This is similar ito what I am basically fitting. The flush hinge is not offset like some, so when flat both leafs are join at the center of the knuckle and lie in the same plane. The key is trying to get them exactly centered in the gap so the door is flush to the next when the hinge is in the closed position. Although, having re-looked at this the hinge knuckle on that set is 15.7mm wide, hence the 16mm gap. My hinge is only 12mm wide, so I guess I just need it a fraction over 12 wide, not 16, then basically have a paper width gap so the knuckle doesn't rub. So I've been daft and over complicating it.

 

[big-all]

normal hinges leaves in line with the hinge pin central to the leaf
where as flush mounted the pin is offset so throws the door to one side

ok just had a closer look and may not be flush hinges as i understand so probably best to do further research as those knuckles do seem to be central ??

 

[msmsm]

Yeah, my research has just showen me the type you are more familiar with! Like I said, new to all this! This has helped though, allowed me to think more clearly around the issue. I think I need to make the gap the size of the knuckle, then because the leaf is centered and has a thickness of about 2mm it will leave a very slight gap, as the knuckle will not go in to the full diameter of it, but the diameter of the knuckle 1mm from the center.(if that makes sense!?). So I will reduce the gap between the doors to 12mm and go from there. Is there any slight adjustment in hinges by forcing the barrels, or are they as they are?

 

[big-all]

those hinges iff designed to be used with an ally profile, either they will fit as is or the profile will have cut rebates or designed to be used with plastic or metal mouldings
i would be tempted to search for such items or just adapt to your own plan providing the I assume wood doors and wood screws will work iff designed to work with machine screws in ally profile??