Fitting isolation valves in rigid tight pipes

Joined
14 Dec 2007
Messages
42
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
I have an ongoing pressure loss problem with my Worcester Bosch Oil Fired Combi. I want to install isolation valves on the 22mm flow and return pipes, so I can check whether the leak is in the radiator circuit or the boiler.

These pipes are quite tight to a wall and rigid, and I think when I cut them they will be hard to move around/up/down so I can fit a compression fitting valve.

Is there a type of valve that will be easier to install in these circumstances?
 
Sponsored Links
Pretty darned awkward really, and you'll need full bore valves if you can manage it......
However - have you looked at the PRV outlet (outside) and the automatic air vent (top of boiler, cover off) for water, and are you happy with the expansion vessel performance?
John :)
 
Sponsored Links
Look at lever ball valves
Some of these have a deep socket one end and standard depth other
You make a desired cut, fit the deep end first and slide other end of valve to the remains cut end, secure the capnuts and off you go

Do clean the pipe stubs well and slide capnuts and olives on else will wil be making more cuts:p
 
All seems good at the boiler John, though boiler is due a service. The boiler doesn't have isolation valves I think, as in the manual it recommends the installer should add them in to pipework, and I can't find any.

Lever ball valves sound good.

What is a slip coupler?
 
It's a joining piece that joints two pieces of pipe, but unlike regular couplers it doesn't have a raised stop in the middle, so it can slide all the way over the pipe and out of the way.
Handy when there's no room/movement to get the pipe into a regular coupler.
 
Know what a slip coupler is now! How would that help?

DP do you have a link to a lever ball valve with deep socket one end?
 
Sorry copea, how would slip coupler help me install valve?
 
It won't help with the valve as such, it'll help with the problem of not being able to disassemble the pipework to give you the access required to re-join the pipes.
It's an alternative to the deep socket valve.
The deep socket allows you to take up some of the pipe in the valve body, the slip coupler allows you to butt the pipes together within a millimetre or so and still be able to join them.
With a regular coupler you'd need to be able to move the pipes half the length of the coupler away from each in order to be able to get them together.
Simple principle, but difficult to explain in words!
 
So how would I install the slip coupler and the valve?

Are you proposing I install the valve with a length of pipe sticking out each end, then make two cuts to match the length of that assembly in my original pipework, put slip couplers over the cut ends, position my valve/pipe assembly, then fix?
 
That's one way, except you may find you can get away with installing the valve directly onto the original pipework with just one new length of pipe and slip coupler to make up the difference.
 
That's one way, except you may find you can get away with installing the valve directly onto the original pipework with just one new length of pipe and slip coupler to make up the difference.

You do not need slip coupling with valve I mentioned above. Valve acts as a slip coupling because of the deep socket one end
 
Let's check again for isolation valves on the boiler. What model is it?
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top