Fitting Kitchen worktop edge trim

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I am fitting new laminate kitchen worktops, instructions say to use worktop contact adhesive to stick the edge trim onto the exposed chipboard. is that the best stuff to use?

Elsewhere it also says, "It is recommended that any cuts, joins or exposed chipboard are re-sealed using clear silicone to prevent moisture penetration".

This would be ok if I was fitting a metal end trim but as I am using the laminate strip for the exposed end I don't think the contact adhesive would work if I put clear silicone over the end first. Would it?

The exposed end is nowhere near the sink of kettle, both are down the other end.
 
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Contact adhesive is they only option. Needs a sharp knife (I prefer scalpel) to trim off surplus then fine sanding.
 
Thanks for the reply.

I will use contact adhesive then.

So I assume I wont need to apply clear silicone to the end I am going to use the contact adhesive on?
 
Any reason silicone could not be used to stick the trim to the worktop ?
 
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The contact adhesive will grip the edge trim and go off quickly, silicone won't. The contact ahesive is effectively a rubber based product, so will seal the cut edge. and if the edging strip is fitted properly, then there won't be anything exposed to let the water in.
 
Yes, you apply it to both surfaces, let it go tacky, and then psu them together. I align the edging strip to the top of the worktop, and then move along the strip pushing it down as you go. Once it's on and set, I use a fine file to give a 45degree angle at the top, and then cut the excess off of the bottom using a sharp knife to scribe the back several tilmes, and then carfully push it backwards to break it.

I've never understood why they don't supply worktop edging in the same size as the woktop thickness.
 
Thanks for the help.

The worktop is 38 mm thick.

The shop where I bought the worktop did not have the end strip in stock, it is due to be delivered on Wednesday. I fitted the
worktop today and assumed the edge strip would also be 38 mm thick but from reading your post I see it might not be and will
need cutting down lengthwise too.

I do have a sharp knife and mini files.
 
Which is the best type of contact adhesive to use? Both are suitable for wood and laminate.

Evo-stik Impact multi purpose 250ml in a tin, drying time 2 minutes.
Evo-stick Impact 30 g in a tube, drying time 10 minutes.
 
Both do the same job, one quicker than the other. If you feel confident on your abilities, then go for the multi purpose, but if you feel you need more time to adjust the joint, use the impact, and then tie the laminate down with duct tape to hold it steady whilst if goes off.
 
Thanks for your help.
I have fitted both worktops, sink, taps and connected it all up.

Just got the 2 edge trims to stick on which are being delivered Wednesday, then the tiling.
 
Sorry TCR, but those are only useful for 0.6 to 1mm thick laminate edging, i.e. the iron-on melamine stuff. No way will they deal with 2 to 3mm thick heavy worktop edging (which is HG laminate and very tough). Standard method is the score the laminate near to size with a carbide laminate scorer (or Stanley knife with #5194 laminate blade) and steel straight edge, snap off, glue and fix with a small overhang (2 to 3mm all round), then file off the excess with a fine single cut file, 8 to 12in long (a plastics file is better, but a standard Bahco metal file will do almost as well - must NOT have been used on metal beforehand as this blunts the file considerably) making single cuts inwards towards the worktop from the outside at an angle of 5 to 10 degrees off the horizontal.
 

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