Hi all have a kitchen tap I want to remove. At the moment I have 15mm isolating valves. Most taps come with flexis. My current tap has fixed copper tails. 300mm flexis would be to long and I don't fancy looping them. Seems a bodge to me. Question if I buy a tap that has same fitting M10 or M12 can I just undo the fixed copper tail at the isolating valve a reuse. Ptfe in olive or is it best to buy new tails and new oilves? Thanks Paul
Fitting new monobloc kitchen tap
- Thread starter Helptav
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Depends.
If there is not much dimension difference on the tap and the inlet connection has some "give" in it, then why not?
If you find your tails are too long or short, you can simply trim them or add a intermediate spool.
A compression coupling will help.
It's the final fit up length that will stop you
Unless I'm mistaken
Wouldn't use ptfe or anything. It's not best practice.
Reuse the fittings once you clean them up. If you retighten then properly, ill be surprised if they leak.
If there is not much dimension difference on the tap and the inlet connection has some "give" in it, then why not?
If you find your tails are too long or short, you can simply trim them or add a intermediate spool.
A compression coupling will help.
It's the final fit up length that will stop you
Unless I'm mistaken
Wouldn't use ptfe or anything. It's not best practice.
Reuse the fittings once you clean them up. If you retighten then properly, ill be surprised if they leak.
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1. Very often the copper tails have either been bent to get them in / connected, or have to be bent to get them out. Although its soft copper I wouldn't want to use it if it has been bent and straightened a few times.
2. I'd suggest your best course is to:
2a. Turn off the hot and cold water before the isolation valves.
2b. Cut the pipes, either with a pipe slice (best) or a hacksaw and thoroughly deburr the edges inside and out. Cut them to a length appropriate to accommodate the flexis, the isolation valves, and flexi to iso valve adaptors.
2c. Get two adaptors. Screwfix 2665R for 1/2" flexi ends, 6089R for 3/8" ends. Note the 1/2" and 3/8" are BSP threads, with internal diameters of 15.2 and 19.1 mm respectively. The ones you get depend on your flexis.
2d. If it were me I'd get two new, decent, full bore isolation valves. Something like Screwfix 21860 for cold and 29086 for hot. You could reuse your existing ones, but I'd suggest new copper olives. Easiest way to get a few copper olives is to get a Screwfix 95828.
2e. For each feed, attach the isolation valve to the cut copper pipe, insert the plain end of the adaptor into the other end of the valve and screw the flexi to the threaded end of the adaptor.
2. I'd suggest your best course is to:
2a. Turn off the hot and cold water before the isolation valves.
2b. Cut the pipes, either with a pipe slice (best) or a hacksaw and thoroughly deburr the edges inside and out. Cut them to a length appropriate to accommodate the flexis, the isolation valves, and flexi to iso valve adaptors.
2c. Get two adaptors. Screwfix 2665R for 1/2" flexi ends, 6089R for 3/8" ends. Note the 1/2" and 3/8" are BSP threads, with internal diameters of 15.2 and 19.1 mm respectively. The ones you get depend on your flexis.
2d. If it were me I'd get two new, decent, full bore isolation valves. Something like Screwfix 21860 for cold and 29086 for hot. You could reuse your existing ones, but I'd suggest new copper olives. Easiest way to get a few copper olives is to get a Screwfix 95828.
2e. For each feed, attach the isolation valve to the cut copper pipe, insert the plain end of the adaptor into the other end of the valve and screw the flexi to the threaded end of the adaptor.
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