Fitting Oak strip to joists.

[happyhacker]

I have aquired 9m2 of 90w x 18mm strips (1.2, 0.6 & 0.4m long) of solid oak flooring and want to know how to lay it. I have a kitchen floor which I will remove the 18mm chipboard (there is no option to lay over). The joists are 50mm wide and about 450mm apart. I guess there must be some sort of moisture layer as the floor is 450mm to a concrete platform and vented to the outside.

Advice would be much appreciated.

 

[foxhole]

If you have oak flooring , not floor boards,? they need a solid sound base, so you will still need to lay a sheet floor [ply] before you can lay the oak.
Though oak in a kitchen is asking for trouble if it gets wet thru a leak.

 

[big-all]

as said above you need a structural floor underneath or your flooring needs to cover at least 3 joists and joins must be on a joist
and for it to be a structural floor only around 1 in 6 being less than 6 joists to stop springing

 

[happyhacker]

Thanks. I think I will lower the existing chipboard to between the joists giving an all over support. I also want to insulate under the lowered parts with I suggest polystyrene allowing air to circulate around the exsposed joist parts.

Any suggestions for an extra air barrier under the oak?

For spillage the areas undet the kitchen units will be existing chipboard. I will be putting a floor drain in there to take away any serious spillage e.g. washer failure but I would like any spillage to find its way down onto the concrete sub base where it can "air" away.

 

[big-all]

that wont work it will cause all sorts off problems as you will stand in one area and all you weight will be on one or two joists and they will flex
the flooring must cover several joists to give full support and spread the load

 

[happyhacker]

How are the lengths fixed. Is it a special sort of nail or do I srew them down from above?

 

[big-all]

google
porta nailer
then knock the nail in at an angle in to the top off the tounge into the floor but not chipboard floor then the next plank will hide the nail

 

[happyhacker]

Then how do you get the floor up one day without destroying it?

 

[big-all]

Then how do you get the floor up one day without destroying it?

you don't that sort off floor is just a cladding and is not designed for removing or reuse as its either glued as a floating so a solid floor or nailed as a non floating so again wont come up

 

[happyhacker]

OK, thanks I will make an acces hatch to get at the pipes etc underneath.

Anyone advise on insulation and vapour barrier?

 

[mointainwalker]

Insulation : value for moneyoption use fibre-wool suspended on chicken-wire/netting.

Vapour-barrier not needed under floor.

 

[foxhole]

You could use self adhesive foam underlay which will allow it to be taken up without damage. [but won't go back down].

 

[happyhacker]

I thought fibre wool would have a draft flowing through it as under floor there is always a draft (I can fell it when I go down there) so not so effective as a solid insulation like foam. Also, surely it should be a push fit between the joists to seal the edges. I think given that I have to put chipboard between the joists to provide a level floor 18mm lower than currently, I should adhere the insulation to the chipboard say with adhesive or may be cut it wider and force it down.

To get my chipboard level I coult nail battens along the joists but that is painful. Alternatively is there some sort of right angled "hanger" available to rest the chipboard on? This would be an "L" shape with a nail hole on 18mm side.

 

[mointainwalker]

I thought fibre wool would have a draft flowing through it as under floor there is always a draft (I can fell it when I go down there) so not so effective as a solid insulation like foam

It would have to be a hell of a draught to get through 100 mm + of fibre-wool.

 

[happyhacker]

I'm back on fixing again. What nails will drive through oak or should I drill a small pilot hole first?