Fitting window board

[VeronicaM]

Hi - have just started updating my bungalow and looking for some help and advice.

I have removed the old window boards as very badly warped and stained pine (UPVC windows fitted). They were nailed in. Underneath the board it is solid all the way across the reveal (think that's what it's called), which is about 7" however it is not flat and quite bumpy in places . I also filled in the small gaps at the side where the board was slotted in - realise I probably shouldn't have done that now!

I would like to fitted a hardwood board and see from other posts (atoll's below) the best way might be to screw some ply on and then stick the hardwood. Do I need to try and get a level finish by filling/plastering before I put the ply on or can I put some dabs of plaster on and sit the ply on that and level it then screw in?

Also will there be a problem in the future with the wood warping? Have seen else about cutting into sections and joining so the grain goes in opposing directions to avoid this happening.

Hope this makes sense - have done bits of diy before but nothing like this. Any advice greatly appreciated

thanks

Ronnie

 

[masona]

Do I need to try and get a level finish by filling/plastering before I put the ply on or can I put some dabs of plaster on and sit the ply on that and level it then screw in?

Haven't got to be exactly level because you can use the green gripfill like a thick putty

Also will there be a problem in the future with the wood warping? Have seen else about cutting into sections and joining so the grain goes in opposing directions to avoid this happening.

Best to leave the new windowboard in the room over 48 hrs to allow the room & moisture temperature for the settling of the wood

 

[simoniris]

If you want to use hardwood presumably you will stain rather than paint finish them?
If this is the case you won't want screw heads showing so a liberal helping of gripfill on the sill will be sufficient.

Cut the board spot on pre-fitting, including starting oversize and cutting the ears if required to oversail the sides of the reveal by an inch or so.
Allow a couple of mm tolerance max [gap] to the inner edges adjacent the reveal and the window frame, you can mastic these in afterwards.

Splodge the gripfill in, loosely place your window board, drop a spirit level on and gently tap the level with a hammer to spread the gripfill and level the board.

Once finished run a neat bead of mastic across the window frame and up each side of the reveal.

 

[VeronicaM]

Hi Masona and Simoniris

Thanks for your replies - really helpful. Yes am planning to stain hardwood so the fixing does need to be invisible. Can I just check - do I need to use the ply or can I just use the gripfill to bond window board directly to solid reveal?

Also would it be a good idea to knock out the bit I filled (!) at the sides to slot the board in - would this help hold it in place?

Thanks again

Ronnie

 

[Thermo]

why the hell are you staining hardwood???? finish it with oil

 

[simoniris]

If the filling is neat then don't worry about it, just cut the window board to suit. If you have a thick window board then fix it directly to the reveal.
If the window board is thin then fix the ply to the board first - short screws through the ply into the back of the board with a bit of gripfill between - and then gripfill it all on in one go.
Depending on the hardwood, Danish oil gives a lovely waxy finish. It's all down to the colour you want - danish oil is quite dark.
Simon

 

[VeronicaM]

Hi Simon

Thanks very much for your helpful advice -really appreciate it. Feel confident now to give it a go!

Ronnie