Fixing New Extractor Timer Fan But Only Have L/N Wiring

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Hi, our Vortice bathroom extractor fan has decided to pack up with the motor dieing on us and constantly squealing when in use.

I got this fan - Vortice M 10/4T - as it was what I thought the same as already up.

However, after taking down the old one we discovered that it was the old option without the timer circuit board and with only the live and neutral wire connections going straight to the fan motor and not to the circuit board as in the timer model.

As for the wire feed through the tiled bathroom wall, that too has only the red and black l and n feeds so no option for the timer sl feed.

So, does anybody know of a way that I can connect this timer fan up to the two wires so that it still works, don't need the timer function, but as Vortice don't make that particular model anymore we have no choice but to use the timer fan model.

Could I simply use the current live wire for the timer feed and leave the main live connection empty or would I still need a perm live and a switched live for both feeds? Or could I remove the timer feed and circuit board

Thanks if anybody can help, seeing as bathroom is all tiled and wires are in wall, we don't really want to have to rewire bathroom for the extra connection needed for the timer feed.
 
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Just connect the live wire to both permanent live and switched live with a link wire.

Obviously it will stop when you turn it off.
 
Just connect the live wire to both permanent live and switched live with a link wire.

Obviously it will stop when you turn it off.


Thanks, but trying not to sound dumb, whats the best way to do the link wire as need to have this small enough to fit in side the fan casing.
 
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Just another (3cm. ish) piece of wire from PL (with live conductor) to SL.

So you think I could use strip an odd piece of twin and earth wire I have in the garage to provide me with the two live feeds for the live and timer connections and join them up with the existing live feed with a WAGO two pole connector, WAGO three pole push fit connector or WAGO spring lever push fit 3 wire connector?
 
No,

just connect the live wire and an extra piece of (the same kind of) wire to the PL connection
(i.e. two wires in PL)

and put the other end of the extra wire in the SL connection.
 
No,

just connect the live wire and an extra piece of (the same kind of) wire to the PL connection
(i.e. two wires in PL)

and put the other end of the extra wire in the SL connection.

Doh! Got you now, loop from perm to switched! But might not be exactly the same cable as was already installed before we moved in.
 
That's it.

I said the same kind of wire because solid and stranded are not supposed to be mixed in the same connector but in this case it doesn't really matter.
 
That's it.

I said the same kind of wire because solid and stranded are not supposed to be mixed in the same connector but in this case it doesn't really matter.

Think it was solid but will take it down and check over the weekend so that I can get the same cable.

Thanks very much for your help. :mrgreen:
 
Hi,

Apologies for opening up a very old thread, but it is 100% relevant.

I have the same bathroom extractor fan as the OP, which comes on with the light and stays on for a timed period after the light is switched off. There is an isolator switch outside the bathroom.

I want to disable the timer so that the fan turns off immediately with the light switch, and found this thread.

I followed the advice above and linked the permanent live to the switched live (I added the brown wire in the attached photo) but this had the effect of both the light and the fan being permanently on regardless of the light switch (this was with the isolator turned on).

Did I do this correctly?

thanks!
Pete
75BCB0CC-90EF-409D-8F9A-6F4A4925726F.jpeg
 
Apologies for opening up a very old thread, but it is 100% relevant.

No it isn’t. The OP didn’t have a perm live wire, but you do.


I followed the advice above and linked the permanent live to the switched live (I added the brown wire in the attached photo) but this had the effect of both the light and the fan being permanently on regardless of the light switch (this was with the isolator turned on).

Did I do this correctly?

No.

Disconnect the permanent live wire.
 
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Thanks for both of your replies.

So once the red is disconnected is it best to connect it to a single terminal block, or snip off the exposed wire, or wrap it in electrical tape?
 
I disconnected the red but the fan doesn't work at all now when the light is switched on. I did also try disconnecting just the yellow (just in case!) but this was the same.

I've put it back to how it was originally and it's all working. Thanks for your help anyway, much appreciated.

Pete
 

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