Fixing plasterboard to breze block

[tigerboy2000]

HI there, first time poster and also a DIY novice so please excuse me if this is a stupid question.
I am hoping to fix plasterboard to my internal garage walls which are made out of breeze blocks. How should I go about doing this? I have heard i need to use battens and then screw the plasterboard onto them - is this the way to do it? insulation? any specific tools i might need? any advice would be gratfeully received.

thanks

 

[Richard C]

Still the wrong forum Tigerboy but you’re getting closer; Building or Plastering & Rendering maybe better but don't worry, I think most of us now get the picture.

You can fix to battens but you can also dot & dab; however, if the wall you’re fixing to is external single skin & subject to damp or if the garage is inherently damp, neither will work very well on their own; conventional plasterboard does not like a damp environment.

You’re also asking about insulation which still begs the question, what do you intend using the garage for? To convert it into a habitable room requires Building Regulations approval, possibly Planning Permision & rather more than a few sheets of plasterbord & some Celotex. We can tell you how to do it properly so it will comply & then its entirely up to you if you chose to go down that route but unless you say what you want to do in there it’s difficult to advise the best way for you to do it!

 

[tigerboy2000]

i will eventually find the right forum!

i basically want to make part of the garage into a toy room for my children's toys. The idea is that it is lined properly so when they go in there to get toys out there is a decent wall and not exposed brick work.

 

[Richard C]

If you making only part of the garage into a toy room, do you intend to build a stud wall to divide part of the garage off from the rest? How will this be accessed, through the main garage, up & over door or via an internal door from the house into the garage? If so, I’m assuming the door is already there? What age is the house & does the garage feel genrally damp or dry? I assume the external walls are single skin? Will the part you’re dividing off include any external walls? What do you intend doing with the floor?

Sorry to keep batting it back at you but it’s important to know what you already have to advise the best way of doing what you want to achieve & you’re not exactly giving much away; the more you explain the better the answer will be!

 

[tigerboy2000]

Hi again,
Okay, this is what i have... the part of the garage that i want to make into a toy room will be accessed through a door from the kitchen. I had hoped to partition the garage using breeze blocks to create a firm wall (but one that can be taken down if neccessary) in the toy room area there will only be one external wall. The house is 8 years old and the walls in the garage feel completely dry. I was thinking of laying laminate flooring down in the toy room area to create a safe floor area for the kids. I can't think of any other info to give but if there is anything else you need to know then please let me know. Thanks for your help on this.
Simon

 

[Richard C]

Personally I’d go with a timber stud wall if you’re ever thinking of taking it down. Here’s the way I’d do it;
Lay a damp proof membrane over the floor & extend approx 6 inches up the walls where you intend to form the room; may not be necessary but not worth risking it if you want it dry & are going to lay a laminate floor. Build the dividing stud wall from 4” x 2” timber over the membrane. Fix Moisture Resistant plasterboard on the garage side, fill the studwork with 4” cavity insulation bats & fix Duplex (foil backed) plaster board to the room side of the stud. For the external wall, I would use the same size studwork fixed to the wall, again over the membrane, fill the stud with cavity bats &, again, line with Duplex (foil backed) plaster board; there are other ways of doing it but this is probably easiest. For the other 2 (internal walls), dot & dab plasterboard directly onto the block work. You can tape the joins & plaster skim the walls which would give a really good finish or use taper edge boards tape & fill the joins; or, if it’s not important, just paper tape the joins on square edge boards & paint it. Lay your laminate floor over the membrane & use a decent underlay. Come eback if you need more info.

Note that this is for a storage room only & does not comply with Building Regulations for a habitable room.

 

[tigerboy2000]

Hi richard, thanks very much for your advice. Just a couple fo things about what you said...dot and dab? dot and dab with what? also, what kind of underlay would you suggest? Is there any special way to form a stud wall with the 4" x2" wood - shouldit be in squares? sorry if i'm just sounding stupid but I really havent done much DIY before!!!

 

[Richard C]

...dot and dab? dot and dab with what?

With this;
http://www.british-gypsum.com/produ...roc_accessories/gyproc_dri-wall_adhesive.aspx
like this;
http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/PLASTER_BOARDING_DIREcT_BOND.htm

also, what kind of underlay would you suggest?

Fibre board
http://www.realoakfloors.co.uk/fibre_boards_flooring_underlay_insulation.php

Is there any special way to form a stud wall with the 4" x2" wood?

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/partition_wall.htm
But use screws not nails.

 

[dextrous]

Definitely use screws!

A couple of years ago I was labouring it a site (conversion of coach house to 2 bed dwelling). Naturally this involved stud walls going up. Had a couple of polish carpenters on board who wanted to use nails and did so on the section they were working on. Funnilly enough, it took me less time to put screws into a section I was doing than it took then with nails.

A few days later, the architect came to us with new dimensions for the rooms which the LABC insisted on for wheelchair access, which thus meant re-setting the studwork.

I had my bit down and re-erected before the polish lads had half their section down (with a load of split and damaged timbers due to the necessity of using hammers and crow bars).

Just thought you'd like to know the moral behind using screws!

 

[tigerboy2000]

Thanks Richard,

your patience and guidance is very much appreciated. I will take some photos and upload them as I go.

Cheers
Simon

 

[Richard C]

Just thought you'd like to know the moral behind using screws!

It also makes for far stronger studwork & produces less pre-stress & damage to the surrounding structure than crashing around with claw hammer.

 

[Richard C]

Don't be afraid to come back if you need more guidance.

 

[tigerboy2000]

thanks both. I will definately use screws for my stud work. looking forward to getting started on the project.

catch you later,

Simon

 

[Richard C]

Just looking at the Dot & Dab link I gave you & although it gives the general idea, it’s not a particularly good example. Make sure you put adhesive near & all around the edges of the board & put additional, intermediate adhesive dots around the edges to give additional support.

 

[dispatch19]

regarding dot and dab i have changed over to dry fix foam its similar to expanding foam but doesnt swell as much its quicker and less messy than mixing plasterboard adhesive and its set in 1 hour and it sticks really well i would recommend it to anyone