Flat Roof - Repair or Renew?

Thats rubbish warm roofs can equally be applied to flat and pitched roofs.
There should be no condensation formed in the rafter space either as.

1. sufficient insulation prevents warm air reaching the cold under side of the roof.

2. a properly installed vapour control membrane and foil backed plasterboard should prevent moist air from entering the rafter space

Ideally abreathable undersarking should be used to let out any moist air trapped during construction also some insulatin should be placed either above or below the rafters to prevent thermal bridgeing.
 
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Chappers, you are right i am wrong. Warm roofs, of course can be pitched.However, i still dont like them:
1. Pitched warm roofs require very good and attentive workmanship.
2. they are very expensive.
3. the USA has tried this practice in walls and roofs and had disasterous results.Large legal damages are pending.
4. I have personal experience of remedial work on warm roof failures.
5. It's almost impossible to make proper seals around interior surface penetrations.
But, none of this justifies my blanket assertion that they only apply to flat roofs. Thanks for correcting me.
 
Tim
I do however agree with you, in part.
A warm roof is something that should be planned into the construction for best results as it works best with insulation over the rafters as well as in between, but with a bit of care it can be made to work as an after fit especially as insulation and membrane technology has come on leaps and bounds.
The big problem as with all roofing ventilation/insulation is you don't really know how well its performing until the problems arise. :D
 
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just picking up on a snippett of this thread in regards to the through roof ventillation and the possible installation of facia mounted soffett vents. I have not read the thread in full nor browsed at the photos ( very slow downloads) but if access can be got easily to the tile eaves then it may be a very simple task to install the vents.
The first two course of tile should be nailed, though if lucky (al be it bad workmanship) they may not be at all which would make the job even easier... you can push up the foot of the tiles on the second .......or third, if nailed, course far enough over the head of the tile beneath to allow removal unhindered of that row of tile, which leaves the eave course just as easily removeable also. Install the eaves strip vents relay first course of tile and nail..... relay second course and nail then by slipping a pointing trowell to the underside of the third pushed up tile course you can by applying pressure with one hand on to the tile face and trowell beneath slide that tile course back into position ....job done.
Only problems are if every tile is nailed so that no tiles course can be pushed up or the nails on first two rows are too big so as to not allow their removal by levering from the bottom of tile upwards without breakingthem, though if they do break can you not relace theese few tiles for new.
Maybe far off the mark here but just a thought.
 

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