FlexiHose and Isolating Valve compatability

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29 Nov 2009
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Bristol
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United Kingdom
Hi.

Im in the process of installing a Countertop Basin with a Monobloc tap and for various reasons require 500mm Flexible hoses instead of the commonly available 300mm. I can only get them with the 10mm male on one end (which is what I need) and 1/2" Female (tap connector style with rubber washer) on the other end which is unfortunately not what I requrie to join to a 15mm copper pipe. I have looked high and low for hoses with a compression fitting but had no joy.

I will be installing isolating valves while I'm at it. One option is to fit the isolator to the pipe then add a short length of pipe and on the end of that place a 15mm to 1/2" straight male coupler which I can then connect my hose to.

My question is, can I take a short cut and do away with the coupler and simply fit the 1/2" female end of the hose to the outlet end of the isolator?

I have seen it done on a youtube video below but read somewhere that as the end of the thread on the isolator is designed to face an olive it might not be flat enough and pearce the rubber seal in the hose. The Wickes isolating valves that I have bought so seem to have a slightly flatter surface on the outlet that they do on the inlet end but not as larger surface area as the couplers seem to have.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FahXuCCoWro

Thanks in advance.
 
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Yes, this will work ok, Just don't overtighten the nut onto the end of the isolation valve,
 
Thanks. Is it wise to put a couple of turns of ptfe on the thread considering there is no olive?
 
PTFE couldn't hurt, but bear in mind that it's not just the treads that could leak with that configuration. If the wassher fails to seal properly water could come out between the swivel nut and where it is attached to the hose (I.E the opposite end of the nut to the threads).
 
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Thanks for the replies. I Got the sink in today. Bit of a strange set up as its in the window bay of a 1920s house but its done now. I have attached 2 images but mot sure whether they will work. I did the half inch connectors up hand tight then just under half a turn with a wrench. One thing that concerned me though was that I did up the compression nut on the bottom of the isolation valve by 4/6 turn as I normally would but on the packet it said to do them up 1 1/4 turns so is this just wickes covering their backs? Thanks
 

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