Floating oak mantle

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Hi,

I have an oak beam for a mantle that is 3ft in length and then 5x5 inches.

I wondered if was best to use straight brackets or T-Shape Brackets to fix it above the fireplace?

My previous one was straight brackets.

Any advice would be great, including size. I'm not doing anything that requires re-plastering.

I'm not doing actually doing the work myself, but want to get the correct fixings for the job.

Thanks
 
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Then you got the wrong person to fit not the wrong fitting , or your walls are unsuitable for floating shelves .
 
I would say threaded rod fixed in place with resin, then drilled holes in the oak

Thank you

I found this, I have attached, is this the correct procedure?

16mm threated rods.

I had previously read the rods go into the wall first and then the mantle pushed on, this is the other way round.
 

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I had previously read the rods go into the wall first and then the mantle pushed on, this is the other way round.
That is one manufacturer's approach to the job and is pretty much at odds with the way that resin anchors are normally set, i.e. installed in the wall first and allowed to set. TBH I wouldn't want to do things that way in ropey Victorian brick
 
That is one manufacturer's approach to the job and is pretty much at odds with the way that resin anchors are normally set, i.e. installed in the wall first and allowed to set. TBH I wouldn't want to do things that way in ropey Victorian brick

Thanks, so in the wall first , so ignore the PDF.
 
No. If that's what they say then do it their way - but it's just a bit of an odd approach, I feel
 
You can get dedicated fittings that project out of the wall and allow for a degree of adjustment.

Hafele make a number of different types

eg https://www.swanseatimber.co.uk/she...aled-Shelf-Support-120x12mm/prod_3974075.html

BTW I agree that it makes more sense when using anchor fix to fit the bolts in to the wall first. Were I to use anchor fix, I would make a light weight template out of a bit of timber to hold the rods "true" whilst they set.

BTW if using the above, try to remove the brick dust in the hole. You can buy dedicated pipe cleaner type brushes and a blower (a bit like a bicycle pump), I normally just use a vacuum cleaner but it is less effective at sucking the dust out.
 
I'm actually struggling to find someone who has experience of thus type of installation.

They don't seem knowledgeable about it and I have to explain. Then they say they can do it.

I don't feel very comfortable having to tell someone.

Maybe it's too small a job for someone with indepth knowledge.
 
I'm actually struggling to find someone who has experience of thus type of installation.
Resin anchors, at least in terms of timber, is probably the province of people who do heavy 1st fix work on listed buildings. That's an area where you often find it necessary to "attach" steel angle plates and timber ledgers to masonry walls with resin anchors. I can't say that many of the guys who've work with/for me in recent years have had much, or even any, experience of installing these anchors, but it really isn't that difficult providing you have an SDS drill, large diameter bits, a vacuum cleaner and a heavy duty caulking gun (or better a resin anchor gun). Your job is maybe a couple of hours work, no more (and only that because you have to let the resin set properly before completing the installation) - and that makes it a job of little interest to many people. Maybe if you post your geographic location there will be a tradesman local to you on here who could offer assistance
 
Resin anchors, at least in terms of timber, is probably the province of people who do heavy 1st fix work on listed buildings. That's an area where you often find it necessary to "attach" steel angle plates and timber ledgers to masonry walls with resin anchors. I can't say that many of the guys who've work with/for me in recent years have had much, or even any, experience of installing these anchors, but it really isn't that difficult providing you have an SDS drill, large diameter bits, a vacuum cleaner and a heavy duty caulking gun (or better a resin anchor gun). Your job is maybe a couple of hours work, no more (and only that because you have to let the resin set properly before completing the installation) - and that makes it a job of little interest to many people. Maybe if you post your geographic location there will be a tradesman local to you on here who could offer assistance

Thanks, when it was done previously it was the woodburner installer, he did just as you describe but I'm going back a few years now.

We are in Hertfordshire.
 
I am going to attempt to do it with the help of a friend. I can't find anyone to do it.

My only concern is keeping the rods in a straight position as the resin drys.

So I just wanted to be 100% sure that this is definitely the best fixing for a 3ft oak beam, by 5 inches depth and width.

Sorry I am only asking again because on sites such as Celtic timber they have rawplugs, which would be easier for me. But I want it be robust.
 

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