flue gas analizer test

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I am slightly confused about the flue gas analysing procedures i.e i have to take out an 11yr old worcester floor standing boiler and blank the gas. when all other building work is finished i then have to put it back in the same position and issue a safety certificate. regardless of whether i am servicing, installing a new boiler, or moving old boiler do i have to fill in the flue gas readings on the safety certificate and do i need my energy efficiency ticket. hope you can help a new gas installer. :confused:
 
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When you put the same boiler back in the same place, there is no legal requirement for a safety certificate.
The fact that you are a qualified RGI is good enough; it is the lack of knowledge of builders/owners that makes them ask for irrelevant documents.
Whenever you do issue a certificate, there still is no legal requirement to fill in FGA readings.
Before you do ANY work on ANY boiler, do the basic checks to make sure it works to spec.
FGA reading can be handy here; if they indicate a problem, it is reasonable to insist on getting it right before moving the boiler. Who knows what causes the problem, and once the boiler is gone, you can never prove it is not your fault.
It is an old trick to ask for a service for a busted boiler and let you pay for the repair because "it was working fine before you touched it".
Insist on separate payment for removing the boiler and putting it back. Plenty of rogue builders that will try to not to pay you, and even if they do, no need for you to wait for the builder to finish his job.

Get yourself in the Combustion Chamber; invaluable help from very knowledgeable people in there.
 
I would take the time to check the appliance over carefully prior to disconnecting and removing, and so a quick run over with the FGA first would be a good idea as it can pick up issues such as vitiation caused by perforation of the inner flue duct, something that you may not see from a visual inspection.

Good point from bengasman if it dosent work after its been moved (which is quite likely) then it will cost extra to fix.

I wouldnt worry about issuing a gas safty cert after disconnecting but i would fill one out after its been re installed.

cheers

j

woot! my first post
 
School of hard knocks mate, we have all been there.
Starters need a bit of help, or they spend half their time holding their ankles.
Rogue builders and landlords, dodgy customers and useless suppliers; they have cost me thousands of pounds.
 
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get a hold of the MI if available, you should not assume the boiler was initially installed properly so you need to check the MI's before reinstating, you also need to ensure refitting as it was does not contravene updated regulations, left undisturbed any appliance can be simply marked NCS but if you refit it you must fit to todays regs so might drop yourself in it, given the age of the appliance i would be ensuring they knew there must be a chance it wont work thats why the tip of getting paid for removal and capping will ensure you get at least half your money
 
Good point about re-installing.
Especially gaspipe and ventilation have changed.
Undesized gaspipe was allowed as long as the appliance reached its required burner pressure. Today, anything under 1mbar drop is a no no.
Ventilation is also often lacking and anything under 90% of the requirement is AR
Be sure to quote for a new flue as well, as very often they get damaged beyond repair.
Watch out for wiring, existing (wall) plugs and anything else that is easier for the plasterer tiler to work over than to work around. They will cover it and you can spend hours completely remounting the stuff. Put it in written quote that you will have to charge hours if they balls it up.
 
School of hard knocks mate, we have all been there.
Starters need a bit of help, or they spend half their time holding their ankles.
Rogue builders and landlords, dodgy customers and useless suppliers; they have cost me thousands of pounds.

like others I got caught out big time after 6months of being S/Employed

story goes

go to look at boiler move:
get there and find a RS potterton puma fitted on a SE Duct! overheated and dead!

so say ok I can move it into kitchen and repair it plus supply new flue as original is .........d

gave a price of £900 (1989)

well 3 days later I finally completed the work
parts:
PCB
Flue + 45 elbow (to get round a cast iron soil)
Diverter valve (guts only)

oh how I learnt :oops: :oops:
 
Advice!

Before you touch the boiler you must ENSURE that it has really been installed properly with an adequate gas supply and no asbestos anywhere.

because when you reinstall it the installlation has to be perfect by current requirements.

First thing is the visual check and flue flow and spillage if appropriate. Then measure the pressure loss between meter and boiler.

Then calculate the cost of putting everything right.

No one in their right mind would refit an 11 year old boiler.

You must quote and get paid in two parts!

Tony
 

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