Wondering if someone could give me some pointers as to what might be causing a problem with the garage lights. There's five fluorescent tubes (LAP RM105D), three on one switch, two on another. Sometimes when you turn them on, they stay on, other times there's a shutdown after about 30 seconds or so. Sometimes it's one light, sometimes two or three. Sometimes the lot shutdown over a few seconds, Speedbird 9 style. Anyone any ideas where to start troubleshooting?
Fluorescent lights
- Thread starter ekmdgrf
- Start date
OK, approx 7.5 C. I only asked as fluorescents are a bit dodgy at low temperatures.
Please could you quantify "low"?
Varies, but I find fluorescent tubes are dodgy starting on a cold winters morning, say around freezing point.
I was always lead to beleive you could get ones with a slightly different gas mix for colder temperatures.
However whenever I've asked the wholesaler for them I've been met with a blank look. Took a stardard tube and a blue electronic starter to the job and as far as I know never gave any problems starting in a walk in freezer
However whenever I've asked the wholesaler for them I've been met with a blank look. Took a stardard tube and a blue electronic starter to the job and as far as I know never gave any problems starting in a walk in freezer
I've seen a few fluorescent lamps in walk in freezers, and indeed in display freezers. They light very dim and take time to give out any meaningful light. They always use electronic ballasts though - magnetic or switch start fittings would struggle to start. I have a feeling temperature is probably not the issue here though . . .
Is the garage remote from the house?
If temperature is the issue then use electronic starters.
- Joined
- 27 Jan 2008
- Messages
- 27,540
- Reaction score
- 3,328
- Location
- Llanfair Caereinion, Nr Welshpool
- Country
Cold I am told is a measurement of heat! And yes below the standard 16°C required in any work place where physical work is not done within an hour one can expect problems.
The other one is volt drop an experiment with florescent lamps I did was a surprise where a array of 25 lamps all 60W was drawing 20A and tripping the MCB and swapping tapping on auto transformer to 127 volt instead of 110 volt reduced the current but not the light output. However last 5 had problems striking so they were swapped back to 110 volt total then under 16A.
Cure to both is the HF ballast which auto corrects voltage and uses a higher strike voltage we call them ballast but really a switch mode power supply.
When striking the lamps use more current then when lit so separate switches will help with induction start as not all switched on together.
Old tubes and wrong matching tube to ballast and started will also cause problems. Ballast can be rated 220, 230, or 240 volt and a 240 volt where the supply is more like 230 will be hard to start and a 220 will use well over rated current. Swapping starters can give a temporary fix but in the main either tube or ballast is at fault and that fault has damaged starter.
The other one is volt drop an experiment with florescent lamps I did was a surprise where a array of 25 lamps all 60W was drawing 20A and tripping the MCB and swapping tapping on auto transformer to 127 volt instead of 110 volt reduced the current but not the light output. However last 5 had problems striking so they were swapped back to 110 volt total then under 16A.
Cure to both is the HF ballast which auto corrects voltage and uses a higher strike voltage we call them ballast but really a switch mode power supply.
When striking the lamps use more current then when lit so separate switches will help with induction start as not all switched on together.
Old tubes and wrong matching tube to ballast and started will also cause problems. Ballast can be rated 220, 230, or 240 volt and a 240 volt where the supply is more like 230 will be hard to start and a 220 will use well over rated current. Swapping starters can give a temporary fix but in the main either tube or ballast is at fault and that fault has damaged starter.
Yes, it's a separate garage.
- Joined
- 11 Jan 2004
- Messages
- 45,916
- Reaction score
- 3,526
- Country
I sometimes get an issue with my 8 foots in my attached garage in winter.
When I change the starters (bog standard FS125's) for fresh, the problem goes away again.
Never had an issue with the tubes themselves.
When I change the starters (bog standard FS125's) for fresh, the problem goes away again.
Never had an issue with the tubes themselves.
I don't believe these lamps have a replaceable starter.
The lights don't fail to strike. They come on very reliably, as soon as the switch is pressed and all light up for 30 seconds or so. Then, just as I've walked across the garage they shutdown. Sometimes it's one or two or three or four. Sometimes all five or sometimes they all stay on.
The lights don't fail to strike. They come on very reliably, as soon as the switch is pressed and all light up for 30 seconds or so. Then, just as I've walked across the garage they shutdown. Sometimes it's one or two or three or four. Sometimes all five or sometimes they all stay on.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
