Foam-type tile backing boards

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Hi. After originally thinking that I was going to re-board my bathroom in moisture resistant plasterboard (other side of studs are boarded in 12.5mm sound panel) and tanking it, I've seen that most tilers are starting to recommend the foam-type backer boards instead, such as Abacus Elements or Wedi Board so I'm thinking of going down that route now to save any problems years down the line with moisture ingress etc.

However, my 2.4M tall stud wall has 400mm centres with two noggins placed equi-distant between top and bottom (which has been OK for plasterboard) but the foam boards appear to be 1200mm x 600mm in size, which would result in some of the edges not having anything behind them.

I was looking at the 12mm thick variants, would this be a problem or are the boards stiff enough to not cause an issue ? I don't want to spend upwards of £500-£600 on the kits only to find that they aren't suitable for what I want to do.

TIA as always.
 
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Not a builder, but for the cost of some extra 2x4, vs cost of repair in the future, I'd add extra supports so all edges are supported
 
Cut the boards to fit the timber, or add timber to fit the boards, don't leave edges unsupported at the back.

If this wall backs onto a bedroom then foam boards aren't necessary. They do provide a good thermal upgrade on exterior walls, but if there's a bedroom the other side, consider using the cement based boards, although to be fair the original idea of water resistant plasterboard will be fine. Something like gtec aqua board.

Also consider adding some insulation between the studs, rockwool 50mm will do, this will help provide soundproofing between bathroom and the room next door, it will reduce embarrassing sounds from plopping, flushing and spitting out toothpaste.
 
Not a builder, but for the cost of some extra 2x4, vs cost of repair in the future, I'd add extra supports so all edges are supported

Yeah, wouldn't be too much work admittedly - cheers.

Cut the boards to fit the timber, or add timber to fit the boards, don't leave edges unsupported at the back.

So just shoving some extra noggins in to match the board edges is the way to go, the 400mm spacing between the vertical studs isn't a problem ?

If this wall backs onto a bedroom then foam boards aren't necessary. They do provide a good thermal upgrade on exterior walls, but if there's a bedroom the other side, consider using the cement based boards, although to be fair the original idea of water resistant plasterboard will be fine. Something like gtec aqua board.

The bathroom has one external wall but one backs onto the dining room, the other two back onto the hallway. Re: the original plasterboard plan, I've seen loads of reports online that gypsum products should be avoided at all costs in the bathroom, is it just scare-mongering and a properly tanked plasterboard wall will be perfectly OK ?

Also consider adding some insulation between the studs, rockwool 50mm will do, this will help provide soundproofing between bathroom and the room next door, it will reduce embarrassing sounds from plopping, flushing and spitting out toothpaste.

I have been putting Rockwool 50mm slabs in all the walls anyway that I've replaced just as a matter of course. What with that and the sound panel board, it makes a world of difference but thanks for mentioning it.

Thanks for the info guys.
 
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I'd avoid gypsum products in wet rooms because there are better products available.

This is my worry after reading up on the subject. Also, the existing bath had leaked ever so slightly at the silicone seal around it's edge as I found out when I ripped out the old Stramit wall. A four-inch deep section of it was just basically black rot !

There seem to be so many much better products out there now that Id rather spend a few extra quid and future-proof it.

I've done so much work on this house while I'm still fit and able enough to do the work that I don't want to cut any corners that result in me having to get people in to repair any bodges in years to come.
 
Look at aquapanel or Hardie board. These are completely moisture resistant, although will need tanking if up against shower or bath.
 
I've just found that the elements board can be bought in 2400mm x 1200mm sizes according to one site advertising it and it appears to be just over half the price of Wedi boards. If the 12.5mm thick variant is OK to bridge a 400mm stud spacing, I think I'll go with that. I've seen some videos on Youtube where a guy is using this Abacus stuff but he doesn't mention what spacing the studs are at, although they do look like 400mm to me. Can anyone confirm ?

The reason for wanting to use the foam boards is that they won't need tanking. Apparently you just have to seal the joints and it looks a doddle to do.
 
The foam boards aren't very 'structural' they need to really go up against something solid, wall or floor.
You only need tank areas that are in direct contact with water, so around edge of bath and shower, and you needn't go up to the ceiling.
 
Thanks Deluks. Looks like I won't have to spend half as much as I thought then :D Always good news forra Yorkshireman :LOL:
 

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