Frame fixing screws

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Be careful with the drill bit size and drill carefully, if it's soft material drill with hammer off.

From memory I use 6.5mm for softish brick and 7.0mm for harder.

Clear the hole out of dust.

Be aware if the masonry is hard sometimes the fixings can't be driven all the way home even with an impact. In which case unscrew and drill again. It's a right pain if you get almost home and the screw won't go in or out.

With a hardwood frame you will prob need to countersink the wood a tiny bit so the head ends up under flush
 
Those are for plastic frames not timber.

Use proper wood screws, preferably part threaded not fully, and with a much wider head than those ones you linked to.

Sink the head and plug the hole with a hardwood plug cut from the back of the frame.
 
Agree with woody, used the torx frame fixings/concrete screws shedloads in the past for many years but have gone back to screws and plugs for anything except upvc windows. Screw and plug can pull it really tight (as screws are not fully threaded) and not strip the thread of the hole like the conc. screws can. Granted they’re very quick and easy tho
 
Those are for plastic frames not timber.

Use proper wood screws, preferably part threaded not fully, and with a much wider head than those ones you linked to.

Sink the head and plug the hole with a hardwood plug cut from the back of the frame.
You must be older than me to still use such techniques.
Are you aware that they sell wooden plugs of all sorts for a few pennies nowadays???
 
You might have to wait a while for a reply, he is still chasing his tea across the landscape!
 
You must be older than me to still use such techniques.
Are you aware that they sell wooden plugs of all sorts for a few pennies nowadays???
Did you say older or wiser? :p

Are you aware that those plugs you buy for pennies are unlikely to have come from the same tree as that door jamb? You may as well leave the screw showing.

Bloody youngsters:rolleyes:
 
Come on, they do all different shades.
Even if it's not perfect match, it's got to be almost perfect.
 
Come on, they do all different shades.
Even if it's not perfect match, it's got to be almost perfect.
I've never seen one that matched, in shade or grain.

But why have bags of random plugs to store or cart around that may have some dubius chance of matching when you can just have a plug cutter in your toolbox, right next to the other bits and just cut a few plugs whenever needed and be sure of a dead match?
 
Great convo...this place is great man haha, so not sure whats my best here...going 2 inches into the harwood frame then into stone as seen attached on pic,
so is it these:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-nylon-hammerfix-8-x-120mm-50-pack/90560

or is it these:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-120mm-100-pack/9008h

Either way Id take a plug from scraps of frame to cover and match color to plug counter sync.

is it 3 screws either side and 2 on top. so 8 total then sill I bed with mortar.
 
Expanding foam (joke)
Top ones in my opinion are better for a wooden frame. But either will ultimately work
 
I've never seen one that matched, in shade or grain.

But why have bags of random plugs to store or cart around that may have some dubius chance of matching when you can just have a plug cutter in your toolbox, right next to the other bits and just cut a few plugs whenever needed and be sure of a dead match?
Very true, thing is that damn plug cutter always disappears when you need it!
 

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