Gap filling on wooden front door.

I did purchase some of that years ago but have never used it.

Thanks to a member here, I discovered that if you drip your finger in white spirit the CT1 will not stick to it.
Nice, I wish I knew that when I used it the first time on my extension roof in my old house. Worked a treat but man I got in a state lol
 
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i've had a few like that.

a panelled door can, and is "supposed to," accomodate shinkage by the panels pulling fractionally out of the grooves (which is how a panelled door is made) in the thicker framing parts.

what happens, especially after many years of painting, is that paint gets into the grooves and firmly glues the parts together, so they can't move, and can't accomodate the shrinkage.

as shrinkage cannot be prevented, it usually cracks the paint or splits the panel.

when you're lucky, and it only cracks the paint, the fix is to scrape all the paint out of the join, so it can move freely, and apply just the thinnest smear of paint to hide the colour of the bare timber. It is less noticable on dark paint.

when the crack is accessible, it's possible to bump the two parts aside with the palm of your hand, brush in a little glue, and bump them together. A repair will not last if you don't remove the paint in the joints.

you might use a flexible silicone sealant, because the crack will open and close in future depending on the weather.

the panels will expand and contract widthways across the grain, not lengthways.
 
I've just checked, from the inside it's just the locations I have said, where the inside panels meet the outside frame, on the verticals only, not horizontal.

From the outside on the bottom there is a small gap too,
20220820_185903.jpg
 
i've had a few like that.

a panelled door can, and is "supposed to," accomodate shinkage by the panels pulling fractionally out of the grooves (which is how a panelled door is made) in the thicker framing parts.

what happens, especially after many years of painting, is that paint gets into the grooves and firmly glues the parts together, so they can't move, and can't accomodate the shrinkage.

as shrinkage cannot be prevented, it usually cracks the paint or splits the panel.

when you're lucky, and it only cracks the paint, the fix is to scrape all the paint out of the join, so it can move freely, and apply just the thinnest smear of paint to hide the colour of the bare timber. It is less noticable on dark paint.

when the crack is accessible, it's possible to bump the two parts aside with the palm of your hand, brush in a little glue, and bump them together. A repair will not last if you don't remove the paint in the joints.

you might use a flexible silicone sealant, because the crack will open and close in future depending on the weather.

the panels will expand and contract widthways across the grain, not lengthways.
Thanks John. That makes sense when you think how these things are joined. Essentially it seems the paint is preventing the door from moving as it should, so, given super extreme weather, the paint has given way basically. At this point I think something flexible makes the most sense and I can see how I can get on. Time isn't on my side to effectively strip the door almost back to (my favourite!) bare wood and give a thin coat of paint. If this flexible fix doesn't work then I guess it might be my only option.
 
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you only need to scrape out the "corner" where panel meets the stile. Maybe an eighth of an inch. preferably go all round the edge of the panel, inside and out

when you scrape it, you will actually see a line where the colour changes, at the wood that has always been in the groove and never exposed until now.
 
I generally agree with your answers but if a door panel is going rogue, epoxy resin will be unlikely to help.

I too (often) recommend epoxy resins but I have never, ever, come across an epoxy filler that can be dragged to leave a finish that doesn't require extra filling or sanding.

A tube of Dry Flex 4. plus the liquid and gun is about £50 for the epoxy resin, another £20(?) for the liquid and then another £30 for the shockingly awful plastic cartridge gun- totalling about £100.

A tube of MS polymer will fit in to a standard gun and cost anywhere between £6 and £11, and it will be far more flexible than any epoxy resin.

Sorry mate, I normally agree with you, but on this one I do not
Why not for £35
Repair Care DRY FLEX SF 180ml

Standard mastic gun
No primer required
 

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