There are two main girder trusses doing most of the heavy lifting and the hip blades are loose and are manually birds-mouthed (pain in the arris).Piece of cake...
Garage Door Lintel - best way?
- Thread starter Ivor Windybottom
- Start date
Not sure what you're referring to. I believe the trusses will miss the outer skin as shown in my diagram, as it's still two courses (plus the wall plate) lower than the inner skin. So they shouldn't need any birds mouth fanciness, or perhaps just a tiny notch. I'll have a carpenter assembling the pre-made roof trusses so all should be fine.
I don't want just one course of bricks potentially bouncing around on top of a lintel where it's very possible it would get clobbered by something being carried into the garage. The second course is to bond them together and add a bit of weight. I may even add a third course between the rafters once the roof structure is on top.
I don't want just one course of bricks potentially bouncing around on top of a lintel where it's very possible it would get clobbered by something being carried into the garage. The second course is to bond them together and add a bit of weight. I may even add a third course between the rafters once the roof structure is on top.
The long timbers that spine the hip. They come loose and have to be birds-mouthed (twice!) on that particular roof.
Correct. Some loose fill (if you have any) might need tweaking
Build it so you don't need a top course and just soffit up to and just beyond the fames, i.e. the soffit board meets the back face of the outer skin.
If it works out the soffit hits the masonry at frame height, then you will need a different lintel to a cavity lintel. Either and 'eaves lintel' or a standard (zero lip) box Catnic. We add some reinforcing timber above the soffit so that the frame headers have something to screw to.
Thanks - I didn't know eaves lintels existed.
I'll have a look at re-engineering the design to eliminate that half course of bricks above the opening, if such a thing is available in 3.6m widths. This was there to match the adjacent bungalow, where the windows are built like this. But I guess I can make a garage door different, as it's a completely different thing anyway.
Or I could use that lintel I previously found, but with some sort of plastic infill instead of bricks.
I'll do some pondering.
I'll have a look at re-engineering the design to eliminate that half course of bricks above the opening, if such a thing is available in 3.6m widths. This was there to match the adjacent bungalow, where the windows are built like this. But I guess I can make a garage door different, as it's a completely different thing anyway.
Or I could use that lintel I previously found, but with some sort of plastic infill instead of bricks.
I'll do some pondering.
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