garage lining

[sharky2015]

Hi, i have a sectional concrete garage that i would like to convert into a basic workshop/storage space.

I plan to build stud walls within the garage walls, but I'm a little unsure about which material would be best, and also the best fixing methods. I was thinking WPB plywood for the wall linings either 1/2" or 1", and i have been debating whether or not to use a grab adhesive rather than fixings, to fix the stud work to the concrete walls and reinforced pillars'.

If you don't mind i have a few questions.

1. Is 2x2" tantalised about right for the stud work?

2. Would 1/2" or 1" plywood be better for wall lining? obviously 1/2" would be cheaper but will it be strong enough to screw into, for hanging hooks or the odd shelf etc.

3. As the garage concrete panels are reportedly quite brittle when drilled into, and the concrete pillars reinforced is it a good idea to use grab adhesive to fix the stud work to the walls? Will grab adhesive be strong enough? I know its supposed to be all great stuff, but I'm always sceptical.

4. If grab adhesive is a bad idea, do you think i would be able to get secure screw fixing into the reinforced concrete pillars?

5. I will be having the current electrics in there up upgraded, some of which will be run in the stud work, and some of which will be surface run on the plywood in trunking/conduit. Is it acceptable to run electrics along plywood? As i know plaster board is fire rated etc, so i wasn't sure what the stance is with plywood walls. The garage is detached from the house so i think that should help with any fire ratings.

Thanks

 

[Burnerman]

Just a few things to think about before you get stuck in.....
Do try to prevent water ingress from under the concrete panels;
If you build the walls in, make sure the door can still open (if its up and over);
Grab adhesive is OK but its best to reinforce somehow.....the panels don't like to be drilled, and the pillars are reinforced - my panels are bolted together so I drilled through the join. Not the easiest but worth it!
Why not split the difference between your panels - use 22mm say?
I've run all electrics on the surface within plastic conduit......nice and neat to terminate, especially.
Heat loss through the roof is enormous, usually.....look out for condensation up there!
John

 

[Nick M]

Hi,

It sounds like we're doing similar projects... the concrete panels I have are held in place with metal plates (about 6" x 2") that sit on the inside of the wall and are bolted to the reinforced concrete posts. This means that the bolt and nut stick proud of the post on the inside so I couldn't put anything on the inside of the concrete posts without doing something. I could have attached to the panels themselves, but it just didn't seem like a good idea (1.5" thick, brittle, and I had visions of the whole thing falling in on me).

I ended up removing the old bolts and replacing them with much longer ones. I marked the position of the existing bolt holes onto 38x63mm treated CLS timber. Then drilled through - first to accept the bolt (I think 8mm) then to accept the nut and socket (about 25mm from memory). Then just connected it all back up again with the galvanised plates sandwiched between the concrete panel and the timber.

On top of that I've put 12mm ply... But I'm not planning on screwing anything heavy into the ply that doesn't also go into one of the uprights or noggins.

If it would be useful, I can grab a couple of pictures the next time I'm out there and share it.

I also had big problems with water seeping in under the concrete panels... solved now touch wood, but that's another story.

Hope this helps,

Nick

 

[robby71]

I have a sectional garage where the panels are joined together by bolts. I fitted 2"x1" batons to the walls using the bolts then fitted polystyrene insulation and finally moisture resistant chipboard flooring which interlocks. This was left as is for about 2 years and i then decided to paint the walls to brighten the place up.
I fitted some Stanley units along the back wall and fitted the same chipboard to make a worktop covered with a rubber checkerplate surface which makes it waterproof and doesn't attract condensation like a metal top would.
The roof was insulated with Kingspan/ Celotex and the doors with insulated foil attached with a strong spray glue.
The floor is covered with plastic interlocking tiles which are easy to mop clean and help with the cold