Garden Taps

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Hi,

My garden tap is leaking, so rather than mess around changing seals, I'm just going to replace with a whole new one.

Current tap is a Comisa 1/2. I don't know whether I need a double check valve replacement tap though? Perhaps it would be safe just to get the double check valve version anyway, as having too many non-return valves in the mains shouldn't cause a problem?

Cheers,
KP
 
Yes, the new tap should have a double check valve on the supply internally or built into the tap.
 
Ok, got it from screwfix with double check valves. Fitted it, but have a problem.

To turn it tight so no water leaks out of the thread, it is at an angle. I have used ptfe tape on the thread, but it still needs to be tight at an angle as shown in photo.

Is there a way I can have it tight, but also upright? Perhaps a washer or something?
 

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Use a lot more PTFE - it will compress against the wallplate forming an impermeable but slightly flexible buffer that will allow you to position the tap at the appropriate angle. That's what I've done in the past and it's worked fine.

Traditionally it was done using hemp and sealing compound, but if all you have at the moment is PTFE then enough of that should do the trick.
 
Outside taps with integral double check valves aren't WRAS approved (with the exception of the super-expensive ones Travis Perkins sell) and so shouldn't be connected to a mains water supply
 
Yes, the new tap should have a double check valve on the supply internally or built into the tap.
Internally is better because then you don't have the risk of damaging it with frost. Seems they commonly stop working if they freeze. Also you can get a dcv with an isolator so you can turn it off in winter or if you're on a meter. We do that with our front one as we're on a main road.
 
Yes, the new tap should have a double check valve on the supply internally or built into the tap.

Nope

Outside taps with integral double check valves aren't WRAS approved (with the exception of the super-expensive ones Travis Perkins sell) and so shouldn't be connected to a mains water supply

Yep, apart from the TP advice

Internally is better because then you don't have the risk of damaging it with frost. Seems they commonly stop working if they freeze. Also you can get a dcv with an isolator so you can turn it off in winter or if you're on a meter. We do that with our front one as we're on a main road.

Sort of! Internally is required!

WRAS requires a DCV to be installed internally along with a means of isolation and a means of drain off after the isolation point. Just because a tap has a DCV or CV does not mean that the install will comply.

Jon
 
Sort of! Internally is required!

WRAS requires a DCV to be installed internally along with a means of isolation and a means of drain off after the isolation point. Just because a tap has a DCV or CV does not mean that the install will comply.
Yes i forgot to mention the drain off, otherwise isolating in winter won't guarantee no damage from frost. wras is one thing but the op needs to know why, not all regs are followed to the letter often due to people not understanding the reason.
 

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