I know this has been covered many times, and I have had a read through the forums, but I'm just looking for confirmation that I have everything ready.
Short story is, kitchen been wired by Part P electrician (a while ago), gas hob arrived yesterday, gas safe plumber arriving tomorrow. I need to provide electrical connection for gas hob.
So the journey starts at the Consumer Unit...
On to the Switch
Down below the worktop to the CCU with socket spur
This socket has been spurred off the CCU using the same size cable.
Now when the electrician put in the above, he said the extra socket was for the ignition on the gas hob. Something I'd have never thought about because until now my cooker has been an old standalone gas jobbie which used batteries for the ignition
Fine I thought, makes sense.
Then my hob turned up with no plug...
In a world where plugs come molded on to devices, I immediately think this now needs to be hard wired in. But alas where is the fuse to protect the hob?
Which sends me running to the forums for research. I suspect I need to replace the current spurred socket with a FCU (3A) and wire the hob into that. Both hob and oven can be isolated from the switch above anyway.
Then it dawned on me...
Can I just put a plug on with a 3A fuse?
On a side note, does the flex for the hob ignition come with those crimps on for any particular reason? Does it make screwing them in easier? Is it to keep the strands together?
Also if I can get away with just putting a plug on, is the reason the hob came plugless, simply so you can fit the flex through the back/side of kitchen units neatly?
Any clarification greatly appreciated, almost as much as hot food will be tomorrow.
d.
p.s. If all else fails, can I use a match to light the hob tomorrow when the plumber is here
Short story is, kitchen been wired by Part P electrician (a while ago), gas hob arrived yesterday, gas safe plumber arriving tomorrow. I need to provide electrical connection for gas hob.
So the journey starts at the Consumer Unit...
On to the Switch
Down below the worktop to the CCU with socket spur
This socket has been spurred off the CCU using the same size cable.
Now when the electrician put in the above, he said the extra socket was for the ignition on the gas hob. Something I'd have never thought about because until now my cooker has been an old standalone gas jobbie which used batteries for the ignition
Fine I thought, makes sense.
Then my hob turned up with no plug...
In a world where plugs come molded on to devices, I immediately think this now needs to be hard wired in. But alas where is the fuse to protect the hob?
Which sends me running to the forums for research. I suspect I need to replace the current spurred socket with a FCU (3A) and wire the hob into that. Both hob and oven can be isolated from the switch above anyway.
Then it dawned on me...
Can I just put a plug on with a 3A fuse?
On a side note, does the flex for the hob ignition come with those crimps on for any particular reason? Does it make screwing them in easier? Is it to keep the strands together?
Also if I can get away with just putting a plug on, is the reason the hob came plugless, simply so you can fit the flex through the back/side of kitchen units neatly?
Any clarification greatly appreciated, almost as much as hot food will be tomorrow.
d.
p.s. If all else fails, can I use a match to light the hob tomorrow when the plumber is here