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Gas wall heater lighting

I am open to constructive advice - perhaps there is no point checking the gas pressure. I am assuming that the thermocouple on my heater has to be heated to a specific temperature for the gas to stay on when I release the control knob. As my problem is that the gas does not stay on (see above) (affecting two different heaters), perhaps the cause is low gas pressure causing a weak flame which cannot heat the thermocouple to the required temperature. If I can get the gas pressure checked I can find out whether or not this might be the case. I don't know how one goes about getting the gas pressure checked or whether it is even possible. If there is a steep fee for this to be done, I probably would not proceed.
 
I am open to constructive advice

1. Get carbon monoxide alarms.

2. See if friends etc. are able to successfully light them, or if it is only you who has these problems.

3. Post a photo showing what you are blowing on through a straw, so that we can determine whether it is broken or not.
 
1. Get carbon monoxide alarms.

2. See if friends etc. are able to successfully light them, or if it is only you who has these problems.

3. Post a photo showing what you are blowing on through a straw, so that we can determine whether it is broken or not.
1. Already mentioned.
2. It solves nothing.
3. Impractical. The heater is freshly-installed. If it is broken it must have been broken by the fitter or beforehand, which seems very unlikely. What people were doing on
I don't know but the solution there no longer works for me anyway.
 
As my problem is that the gas does not stay on (see above) (affecting two different heaters), perhaps the cause is low gas pressure causing a weak flame which cannot heat the thermocouple to the required temperature.

You have already stated, that an engineer, can manage to successfully light the heater, so that may suggest that you are not following the correct lighting procedure. The flame needs to be established for several seconds, long enough to heat up the thermocouple, before the gas valve will hold open. To allow that to happen, the knob needs to be manually pressed in for those several seconds - are you doing that?

The ignition process is...

Press the knob, turn it until it clicks, whilst still pressing. If it fails to ignite, wait a few seconds then try again.

Wait several seconds, to allow the flame to establish, and heat up the thermocouple, then release the knob.

I think you are suggesting you have two of these heaters, and are having the same issue with both - surely they cannot both have the same fault?

3. Impractical. The heater is freshly-installed. If it is broken it must have been broken by the fitter or beforehand, which seems very unlikely. What people were doing on
I don't know but the solution there no longer works for me anyway.

That video is totally irrelevant to your issue - it uses a pilot light system, your heater does not.
 
Thanks - I am following the procedure you describe, depending on what you mean by "several", and it sometimes works, e.g., for an engineer, and for me. I would prefer it to work every time.
 
1. Already mentioned.

And I’m going to keep mentioning it until you tell me that you’ve bought one. I don’t want to read in the news that J. Sampson, age 45, has tragically died of carbon monoxide poisoning due to a faulty gas heater. “Police say that they believe Sampson had been aware of issues with the heater and had resorted to searching for solutions online, but continued to use it.” NOT JOKING.

2. It solves nothing.

It seems to me as that you don’t understand how you’re supposed to use this heater. For example, you mention a “pilot light” that apparently this heater doesn’t have. Maybe you’ve been misled by random YouTube videos? Anyway, a “fresh pair of eyes” can often help in this situation - likely far more helpful than comments from people who haven’t even seen a photo of your heater.

3. Impractical.

What, impractical to post a photo?
 
OK, carry on telling me. I know how to post a photo. Taking one is a different matter. I have progressed now to knowing that what I am lighting is not the pilot light (at least on the wall heater). Anyway, I see that I am not getting anywhere here so I am "unwatching" this thread.
 
I know you say you will no longer follow this thread but just in case. The owner guide herE says you need to hold the ignition in place for 20 secs not just a few. Just wondered if that would help.


Owner Guide
2.0 Introduction & Operation
2.1 Introduction
1. Your Brazilia F is a room sealed gas
convector heater. This means that the gas
burning section is sealed from the room in which
it is installed. It is connected to a circular flue
terminal outside the building. This terminal is the
inlet for air required to burn the gas and also the
outlet for the flue gases.
2.2 Operating units that are not fitted
with the Comfortstat control.
1. The appliance is controlled by a knob which is
positioned at the lower right on the front of case
(Fig. 1).
The knob has five positions.
2. To light the appliance (Fig 2a): At the OFF
( ) position push in the control knob as far as
possible and still pushing in slowly turn
anti-clockwise to the ignition position ( ) to light
the burner. Turning the control knob slowly
allows gas to enter the burner ready for ignition.
Keep the knob pushed in for 20 seconds and the
burner should remain alight. If not, repeat the
sequence.
NOTE: Under extreme wind conditions more
than one attempt to light the appliance may
be required.
3. Once lit, the control knob can be altered to
any of the three heat settings.
4. When first lit after installation some smells are
likely to be emitted. These will quickly clear away
with use.
NOTE: If the appliance goes out at any time
wait 3 minutes and repeat the procedure.
When changing from one setting to another
the knob should always be pushed in slightly.
5. To turn the appliance off: Push the knob in
slightly and turn to the OFF ( ) position.
 
I don't know how one goes about getting the gas pressure checked or whether it is even possible. If there is a steep fee for this to be done, I probably would not proceed

WP should have been checked by the engineer you have already thrown money at!
It's one of the first things I'd have checked and should be done by anyone coming out to your issue!
 
If a balanced flueappliance lights when "blown through a straw", but refuses to light when the sight glass is replaced this suggests a flue problem to me.
Switch the thing off and stop messing with something dangerous as you've already been told many times.
 

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