Gate Post Issue

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4 Apr 2010
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Lincolnshire
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Hi guys,

Had some close board fencing fitted, along with a very big gate. It's about 4 meters long, with a metal frame, and metal post, now over boarded both sides with close board fencing.

The guy who made the gate, fitted the post, it's about 2 foot under ground, with two barrow loads of concrete.

The problem is, due to the weight, the post is now leaning, and the gate scrapes on the ground.

The guy has been back to have a look, and is trying to think of a plan, he's talking about hammering a metal post to the right, taking the gate off, straitening the post up, pouring in some very running cement, and trying to stick it back to where it should be, any other ideas or comments greatly appreciated, thanks, Paul

 
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Don't really want a wheel, having that impressed patterned concrete, and will be angled to let the water run away, spent a fortune on the gate frame and post, so it should stay put, any other ideas ?


Thanks, Paul
 
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2 foot underground is not a great deal, and it does look like the hole dug for the post was not very wide - so the post does not have a lot to restrain it in the ground. Difficult to remedy now

What about strapping the top of the post back to that adjacent concrete fence post?

The only other options are to lighten the gate or support the end with a wheel
 
The bloke who made it came up with two ideas

1. as I described above, but also try and brace to the next fence post, but worried it might brake that too.

2. Dig out the concrete with a braker, make the base bigger, lots more concrete,


Paul
 
The best option is get digging. A large enough hole for about a 1/2 cubic meter of 35 newton concrete with all the old concrete removed.
2' into the ground is fine imo.

And also spike it or u bar it with re bar for the finished concrete drive to grab hold off. You'll have no problems after that.

Also I would re-check the gradient carefully from your drive to what looks like the street and make sure the gate is high enough to ensure it opens without scraping the imprinted concrete.
 
With that close boarded gate I would want to see that post deeper.
Also that gate motor will not like the wind generated on the gate. This is also one of your problems.

TBH a hydraulic opener should have been used with secondary locking.
 
Fence post will break if you try to link to it. Dig deeper and more concrete round to post, consider a steel post.

Did the installer give you an electrical test certificate - normally the electricialns on here say fixing wiring/conduit to a fence is a BIG no!

Why does everyone want to create a zone around their house where a burglar can take his time breaking in without being seen from the road? Best thing for security is to allow passers by to see in through the gate!
 
Thanks for everyone’s comments, I am going to see the installer this morning, as the concrete man called me early to say he wants to come and shutter today, ready for the concrete pouring on Thursday, so he better get digging.

Re the wind factor, I had already realised that, so have been looking for a big electro magnet for the other end, will get it switched by the gates control unit.

I will check with the installer re the conduit on the fence, done a very tidy job though.

Will post back how I get on,


Paul
 
The wind factor will also affect opening and closing. The accuator you have is a mechanical "worm drive". It can suffer and buckle. Especially the "running cap". But its the closed boarded gate thats the worry for me, seen them torn off in windy conditions. ( The welded brackets, the brackets are fine the metal they are attached to is literally torn out of the post).
Is that the "P" kit used, for gates up to 5mtr and 400kg?
 

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