Glow Worm 24ci - was losing pressure - now has no pressure..

[uprightmonkeyuk007]

And for the record, I followed the manual and bled the radiators after i fixed the vile object and the pressure dropped to 0.3 - Again... Had to take the valve apart again!

So Mr Smug (Agile) is right to poo poo the whole bleeding mess

 

[Softus]

I thought Ws was doing that

No - he's Mr December, 'cos the cold weather doesn't make any difference to him.

 

[corgiman]

lmao

he will go to a higher level anyway


blessed be thy system armen

 

[Alfredo]

So now you need to

1)order a new filling loop assembly (you don't just get the tap, and another part has been modified so you have to fit the whole new assembly)
..which is next lesson.
2)trace the loss of pressure..which could be.a) Faulty PRV b)a leak on the system c) a blocked flexi tube from pump to expansion vessel

If it is c) then I throw myself off a cliff as on the early 24ci its almost impossible to reach the clip on top of the pump. Its a horror. You can get it out..you can't get it back on

If its going to 0.3 in a short space of time I'd put money on it being a) or b)

Come to think of it I'm not sure you should have bled the rads. If they are hot at the top leave well alone. Only vent rads that are hot at the bottom and cold at the top, and only let the air out (sorry if i'm telling you how to suck eggs). Try repressuring again..take it to 1.3 bar and don't touch the rads at all..does it still lose pressure?? I'd still order a new filling loop though.

Come back to us

Alfredo

 

[uprightmonkeyuk007]

System has been running stable all night at 1.3 bar - apparently no leaks anywhere and boiler cupboard nice and dry...

Will order new filler assembly and fit as suggested.

Cheers again

 

[Alfredo]

Two 'heads up' warnings on fitting new filler loop assembly

1) They are so mean they do NOT include the two little rubber 'O' sealing rings on each end of the new filling loop. You MUST retain and reuse the ones from your existing..unless you order new ones seperately

2) At the other end of the copper tube from the tap is the modified part, the Inlet pressure reducing valve. You must depressure & drain the boiler before removing this (black small cylindrical tap under boiler. Put piece of small diameter plastic tube on outlet and feed into a bucket. You will get up to a bucket full or so. The new inlet reducing valve is longer so the copper tube from the tap to the inlet reducer is not interchangeable with the old one. You get a new 'assembly'

Otherwise its procedure as before..remember, have a few receptacles and old towels/paper towels just in case.

good luck

Alfredo

 

[Agile]

I had to buy a new PRV for this model yesterday.

It has a brass body but plastic top.

Is it my forgetful memory or did they use plastic bodied PRVs in some of these boilers?

Tony

 

[Alfredo]

Tony, do you mean PRV as in Pressure Release Valve or PRV as in Pressure reducing valve?

I think the Release Valve has a plastic top, and the reducing valve has a plastic screw in elbow, which was also a source of leaks in earlier models.

Alfredo

 

[kevplumb]

So Mr Smug (Agile) is right to poo poo the whole bleeding mess

yer can't say that about tony (well not unless i get there first)

he's a clever lad fella

 

[Agile]

Thing is I never actually commented on his boiler in this thread!

Maybe he was refering to elsewhere when I have said they are my least favourite boiler on account of their multitude of plastic parts and their Saunier Duval connections.

Its not mentioned here but behind the filling valve inlet there is a zero pressure valve which often leaks to the underneath while filling. Chris replaced one only to find the replacement doing the same thing. I now just tell customers to put a bowl under it.

Tony

 

[Alfredo]

And tucked away in the Glow Worm manual where no-one can see it it does in fact say that a small amount of water dripping is normal when you operate the filling loop, but it doesn't half caused trouble. I have been called out to drive half a county distance at night to fix an 'emergency leak'..aka ten drops of h2O..just to find it was this little blighter doing what the manufacturer says it will do anyway.

Its crap design whichever way you look at it, and the modified unit does it less, but still does it.

Alfredo

 

[richardadc]

The cure is simple, but if you've never done it before you need to be careful...

Alfredo

Thanks Alfredo. I've just done what you mentioned above and it has fixed the issue with my filling loop too. I was thinking i was going to have to get a heating engineer out so it has saved me a few quid!

Thanks again!

 

[Agile]

That was TWO years ago.

But if the information helped you out then thats very lucky.

It always helps to search old posts first as usually the answer is already there.

Tony