Glow Worm Flexicom 30cx - How to fit flow link pipe?

[Golf2]

Hi guys,

I have noticed a leak from the flow link pipe on my Flexicom 30cx boiler and I have a brand new original replacement part to swap it out.

Could anyone please give me a quick guide on how to change this part? I know how to physically get to it and remove it but what and how do I need to drain before removing this part and when refilling the system does it need to be done in a particular way?

Thank you very much in advance! Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[ianmcd]

not sure what you mean by a Flow link pipe ? can you post a pic of what you are referring to ?

 

[Golf2]

Hi, thanks for replying.

I've included a link to the part I'm referring to.

http://www.plumbcenter.co.uk/produc...7hT65swOKjW-V9VyJPohrf77afW6TQtMvRxoCfvvw_wcB

In the Flexicom 30cx it's on the left hand side behind the siphon.

Thanks!

 

[petit_pablo]

You need to drain the heating side of the boiler.
Flow and return isolators are good on glowworms. Use a 4mm Allen key to shut them off. Then use the drain off built into the isolator to drain the water out.
Remove syphon, one screw and it pulls down. Push the grey tube off the back.
Then swap the piece you have.

 

[Golf2]

You need to drain the heating side of the boiler.
Flow and return isolators are good on glowworms. Use a 4mm Allen key to shut them off. Then use the drain off built into the isolator to drain the water out.
Remove syphon, one screw and it pulls down. Push the grey tube off the back.
Then swap the piece you have.

petit_pablo, thanks very much for your advice, really appreciate it!

Once I've closed the central heating flow and return isolators, which of the isolators should I use to drain from? There's a drain point on both of the isolators.

When draining from this point, does it drain all the water from the radiators or is it just a small amount of water being drained from the boiler itself?

Sorry, I'm new to this!

Thanks again,

Tom

 

[D_Hailsham]

Does the boiler have to be opened, i.e cover removed, to replace this part? If so, the work must be done by a Gas Safe Registered engineer.

 

[Golf2]

Does the boiler have to be opened, i.e cover removed, to replace this part? If so, the work must be done by a Gas Safe Registered engineer.

I was aware of this but thank you for confirming.

Tom

 

[Ihavenojob]

Does the boiler have to be opened, i.e cover removed, to replace this part? If so, the work must be done by a Gas Safe Registered engineer.

Why?

 

[Golf2]

Job done, thanks to those who helped!

Tom

 

[D_Hailsham]

Why?

Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998.

It is "work" on a gas fitting, as defined by para 2(1):

“work” in relation to a gas fitting includes any of the following activities carried out by any person, whether an employee or not, that is to say—
(a) installing or re-connecting the fitting;
(b) maintaining, servicing, permanently adjusting, disconnecting, repairing, altering or renewing the fitting or purging it of air or gas.

3.—(1) No person shall carry out any work in relation to a gas fitting or gas storage vessel unless he is competent to do so.

The Health and Safety Executive say:

For the purposes of these Regulations, ‘work’ includes do-it-yourself activities, work undertaken as a favour for friends and relatives, and work for which there is no expectation of reward or gain, eg voluntary activity for charities. This means that anyone carrying out such work must have the necessary competence, as required by regulation 3(1).

A DIYer does not have to be Gas Safe Registered, but he still has to be competent.

Whether someone is competent or not will only be apparent when something goes wrong.

 

[Ihavenojob]

unless he is competent to do so.

Job done, thanks to those who helped!

Guess he was competent then.

 

[D_Hailsham]

Guess he was competent then.

We will have to wait and see.