Glow Worm Micron 80FF

[averagejoe11]

Morning All,

I'm hoping that one of you experienced fellas would be able to assist me with a parts related question. I have a Glow Worm 80FF boiler with what appears to be the common lockout issue. I've had the electrode and lead changed on two separate visits within the last year for a similar problem, for the last 9-10 months I've had no issue.

Suddenly I now notice that the boiler attempts to light, I hear it ignite, the burner LED comes on for a split second before going out, it retries this a couple more times before lockout. After resetting the boiler it might fire up, this may take several attempts. Before I call him back out I wonder if any of you could tell me whether or not you think it might be anything other that the electrode, I'm aware that the PCB is troublesome on these boilers (I have the green LEDs on mine so assume it's the later one, although I've lived here 9 years and it's never been changed). All my external controls appear to work, I had noticed air in the pipework but have fully bled the system a couple of times. The problem occurs more often when starting from cold too.

Yours in advance

Joe

 

[pallen5000]

Sounds like it's not flame rectifying, which would probably be either electrodes or PCB. As you have had electrodes already I would go for PCB, but also the leads to the electrodes would need to be checked over.

 

[averagejoe11]

Thanks for the reply, I do know the engineer replaced the lead to the electrode too so maybe that lead to the PCB

There seem to be two part numbers for it (and a variation in price) too. I have two questions if I may, am I able to replace the PCB myself as I'm not touching the combustion side of things? Can I use either of the two boards (2000227135 & 2000801991) as a replacement. I have the 2000227135 currently installed. I have a good understanding of electrics and can find my way around my heating controls and a multimeter.

Joe

 

[pallen5000]

There are 2 versions of PCB, I think one has pump connections on and the other doesn't. So you would need to buy like for like. And as for replacing the PCB yourself, you probably would be able to do it as it's not a major job.....but to acces the PCB you would need to remove the case which would also open up the combustion side of the boiler, which would be frowned upon on this site. If you have a plumber friend then it would be safer and easier for him to replace, and hopefully he won't charge you too much for his time.

 

[averagejoe11]

Whoops, I have taken the cover off in the past, I'' avoid that. I don't really mind paying the labour, I just noticed on line that there seemed to be a big difference in PCB prices so thought I'd try and save a few pennies there. My pump is wired to the boiler (I'm assuming to allow pump over run).

I've just looked online and it appears on keeptheheaton.com that 2000801991 replaces 2000227135 although they also sell 2000227135. I'm I wrong in thinking that the 2000801991 would be a better board?

Joe