GlowWorm Hideaway Hot Water Problems

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Hi,

I'm new to all this, so bear with me.. I know a LITTLE bit about plumbing and heating, but I've been having a problem with my boiler that I can't figure out..

I have a GlowWorm Hideaway 60b that works fine if you want your heating and hot water on all at the same time.. But if you want one or the other (ie hot water ONLY) then it doesn't work (basically its all or nothing).

There is a header tank in the attic, which feeds a tank in the airing cupboard, and there is a pump at the bottom of the airing cupboard. Inside the airing cupboard there is a switch that is switched on (like a light switch), but I don't know what it's for.. Outside the airing cupboard, there is a switch with a built in fuse, that is switched off (but I don't know what it's for either).

The actual boiler itself is linked to a programmer/timer unit that I use to turn either the hot water or heating ON, OFF, ONCE or TIMED and there is ADVANCE.

Hope that provides enough information for now and I look forward to hearing some advice on what I can do to get the hot water working by itself, for these hot summer months.....
 
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I expect you need to be checking your motorised valve!

Tony
 
Hi,

I'm new to all this, so bear with me.. I know a LITTLE bit about plumbing and heating, but I've been having a problem with my boiler that I can't figure out..

I have a GlowWorm Hideaway 60b that works fine if you want your heating and hot water on all at the same time.. But if you want one or the other (ie hot water ONLY) then it doesn't work (basically its all or nothing).

There is a header tank in the attic, which feeds a tank in the airing cupboard, and there is a pump at the bottom of the airing cupboard. Inside the airing cupboard there is a switch that is switched on (like a light switch), but I don't know what it's for.. Outside the airing cupboard, there is a switch with a built in fuse, that is switched off (but I don't know what it's for either).

The actual boiler itself is linked to a programmer/timer unit that I use to turn either the hot water or heating ON, OFF, ONCE or TIMED and there is ADVANCE.

Hope that provides enough information for now and I look forward to hearing some advice on what I can do to get the hot water working by itself, for these hot summer months.....

The switch in the airing cupboard that lights up is the motorised valve that was mentioned by agile. That is where the problem is, you will need to get someone to replace the head of it or at least check it and find out what is wrong with it. It has got a name on it, when you phone them tell them its name and that will help.
 
Ok.. It's a Honeywell motorised valve by the looks of it... It's a big old silver box near to the pump. The fused socket outside the airing cupboard goes into a box marked 'valve' and then from that there is a lead into the silver box thing.

On top of the box there is a switch. If you imagine it in terms of a car gear stick, it's in 2nd (nearest to you). The box itself is a bit rusty, and it appears from the amount of lime scale around the pump that its probably been leaked on. It also stinks of wd40.

Silly question, but is it worth changing the fuse of the switch, or does that not even matter? It's an old house, so maybe it's blown? Or would that mean that I wouldn't have any hot water at all?

That is for the advice so far...
 
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If the fuse has gone the pump won't go, so fuse is ok. The motorised valve has a default position of hot water only when the motor is not energised in it. I don't understand the lever position unless the box is on its side so the the lever is at the top. in which case if that is the same lever

I suggest you try gently pushing it across the slot until it rest in the notch, that hold in the heating and hot water position. If the heating now works the the motor in the metal box has rfailed and you need a new motor. This can be replaced just by removing the cover on the box with electrics off.

Either that or change the complete assy, they cost about £75 and take about 1 hr to change.
 
I'll take a picture.. As far as I can see, following your advice, the switch does sit in the notch..
 

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