"Gluing" uPVC trims

[opps]

A mate is hacking render off a yellow London stock and red rubber brick house.



The render is off now and he is busy replacing the red rubber bricks and polishing the yellow stocks. However when he removed the render from the porch area the uPVC "architrave" around the uPVC front door cracked where it meets the uPVC door frame. It is just a straight profile set at approximately 30 degrees to the door frame where it used to meet the rendered porch.



The porch will be rendered. It might be hard to tell from the image, but a crack has developed where the two uPVC faces meet higher up.

What product would they have used originally to "glue" the meeting faces?

And if the said product is difficult to source- would he be able to use something like superglue?

The section is question is only about 600mm.

BTW, the fitters did not use silicone at the join.

Thanks in advance.

 

[aveatry]

Not sure what you mean but I know window fitters use superglue, like this one, not sure if it is standard mitre glu or special for upvc https://www.fasciaexpert.co.uk/fascias-soffits/white-fascias-and-soffits/super-glue

 

[Notch7]

Superglue

If it was me I’d buy some new trim

MitreBond Aerosol Kit

• Multi purpose industrial strength superglue and activator• Sets in 10 seconds• Will not run, drip or soak• Suitable for most materials• Dries clear

www.toolstation.com

Not sure if this stuff is any different

Super Glue Mitre Kit Adhesive

Super Fast Bonding of uPVC Trims and More (50g Superglue with 200ml Activator Spray) Thicker, less-runny formula! Two part, fast-acting ,…

www.trulypvc.com

 

[Notch7]

Not sure what you mean but I know window fitters use superglue, like this one, not sure if it is standard mitre glu or special for upvc https://www.fasciaexpert.co.uk/fascias-soffits/white-fascias-and-soffits/super-glue

Yeah I’m not sure either, I’m pretty sure it’s the same formulation

 

[opps]

Not sure what you mean but I know window fitters use superglue, like this one, not sure if it is standard mitre glu or special for upvc https://www.fasciaexpert.co.uk/fascias-soffits/white-fascias-and-soffits/super-glue

They, people that fit uPVC, seem to use some kind of white "cement" (read: adhesive).

I guess I need @ronniecabers or @crank39 to let us know their secret products.

If he uses clear superglue, the crack will remain visible, even though it is no longer bouncing.

 

[opps]

Superglue

If it was me I’d buy some new trim

MitreBond Aerosol Kit

• Multi purpose industrial strength superglue and activator• Sets in 10 seconds• Will not run, drip or soak• Suitable for most materials• Dries clear

www.toolstation.com

Not sure if this stuff is any different

Super Glue Mitre Kit Adhesive

Super Fast Bonding of uPVC Trims and More (50g Superglue with 200ml Activator Spray) Thicker, less-runny formula! Two part, fast-acting ,…

www.trulypvc.com

The trim is fine, bar the fact that a crack has developed at the meeting face over 25% of the length.

 

[crank39]

I've never been any good at sticking trims on with superglue, I either get it all over my fingers OR all over the frame so I tend to silicone trims on, some fitters swear by glue and are really neat with it while some use double sided tape, never been a fan of the tape method because when the sun softens the glue they just pop off. If its superglue then its basic mitrebond stuff with the activator, nothing special. If its the joint between the trim and the door frame running the length of the door then I'd run a fine silicone seal all the way up

If your talking specialist stuff for repairing screw holes or cracked welds then its probably Stelmax, a product that I've managed to avoid in 30years of double glazing

 

[opps]

I've never been any good at sticking trims on with superglue, I either get it all over my fingers OR all over the frame so I tend to silicone trims on, some fitters swear by glue and are really neat with it while some use double sided tape, never been a fan of the tape method because when the sun softens the glue they just pop off. If its superglue then its basic mitrebond stuff with the activator, nothing special. If its the joint between the trim and the door frame running the length of the door then I'd run a fine silicone seal all the way up

If your talking specialist stuff for repairing screw holes or cracked welds then its probably Stelmax, a product that I've managed to avoid in 30years of double glazing

Cheers mate.

That sounds like the stuff.

Stelmax 1965 Gap Filler 132g, White

Stelmax 1965 Gap Filler & Sealant is an easily applied PVC resin, pigment and plasticiser. It will gap fill and bond readily to form maintenance free joints of exceptional strength for rigid and plasticised PVC. Good adhesion can also be achieved when used with many porous substrates. 1965 is...

www.abbuildingproducts.co.uk

Would the above be suitable, and how does one work with it?

I am guessing that he doesn't want to use silicone given that the join didn't previously have silicone.

Hard to see from the photo but it was some kind of weld.

How quickly does it set?

He plans to back fill the gap behind it, in stages, with sand and cement before the plasterer renders up to the meeting edge.

I would have recommended removing the trim but at the top there is a horizontal trim and the angled section needs to marry up with that at the meeting edge.

If he takes it off (the vertical trim) and the render is deeper than before, it might project too far.

Does that make sense?

 

[ronniecabers]

Agree with Crank... very much try and avoid superglue ( and activator ) myself unless it's a really awkward piece. Personally I hate stelmax, find it particularly vile stuff to use. Again double sided tape tends to let go in the sun so that leaves good old clear silicone. We use a particular brand that ' crusts/skins 'over within 10 minutes and is actually really good for trims.
As goes a ' weld ' , superglue can give that effect and certainly when superglue trims are removed it can leave part of the trim behind, agin same with stelmax . Stelmax youbwould apply with either you finger or something similiar to a putty knife...as I've said vile stuff to use in my opinion lol

 

[crank39]

To be honest I'm still trying to work out where you/he plan on using it?

As I say I've never used it but as far as I was aware it was for repairs to screw holes and cracked welds where it can be sanded and polished back to a shine

 

[ronniecabers]

It can be used on the edges , pretty much like you would with silicone ( when sealing ) and superglue whens sticking. I'm really not sure why fitters try and use it like that, as you say , it's a ' gap 'filler

 

[crank39]

I'd probably end up with some in my eye or dripping some on a carpet, its just my luck, same with superglue. 20 years ago a lad at a place I worked dripped some superglue on a french polished coffee table and then wiped it off with his finger, but then this is the same guy that used the same coffee table as a saw horse

 

[opps]

I'd probably end up with some in my eye or dripping some on a carpet, its just my luck, same with superglue. 20 years ago a lad at a place I worked dripped some superglue on a french polished coffee table and then wiped it off with his finger, but then this is the same guy that used the same coffee table as a saw horse

I have to confess that I once got super glue on my tongue and teeth.

I was gluing something and applied too much glue, I licked my finger to stop the excess dripping down. I often do that. On that occasion, I licked my finger twice. The small amount of glue stuck to my tongue for about a day, and to my teeth for about 2 days.

 

[opps]

Agree with Crank... very much try and avoid superglue ( and activator ) myself unless it's a really awkward piece. Personally I hate stelmax, find it particularly vile stuff to use. Again double sided tape tends to let go in the sun so that leaves good old clear silicone. We use a particular brand that ' crusts/skins 'over within 10 minutes and is actually really good for trims.
As goes a ' weld ' , superglue can give that effect and certainly when superglue trims are removed it can leave part of the trim behind, agin same with stelmax . Stelmax youbwould apply with either you finger or something similiar to a putty knife...as I've said vile stuff to use in my opinion lol

Thanks.

I will probably go with the Stelmax because it looks like that is what was used previously.

My image isn't particularly helpful.

The trim is 4mm(?) deep and sits at about 30 degrees to the door frame. It isn't flat to the door frame.

I guess that the meeting edge is mitred, meaning that the potential glue surface area is very small.

Other than the area that has cracked away from the frame, a very rigid white product had previously been used.

For all I know they may have used superglue initially on the door frame, silicone at the rendered wall edge and then, possibly the Stelmax.