External floodlight fed off the upstairs lighting circuit full of water?
Guess the Fault Time!!!!
- Thread starter oharaf
- Start date
He shoots........................oh what a goal from GaryMo, spot on Gary.
Went out to the external light, cover half open full of water, took it down and water running from the PIR absolutely soaking wet.
Gone for a WEEE WEEE now.
In total there were 7 faults in the property, including borrowed neutrals, incorrectly connected ceiling roses, missing earths at the sockets, L and neutral reversed at sockets.
So a PIR and CU change turned into 3 and a half days of work, changing the tails was possibly the worst part WALL, CAVITY, WALL!!!!!
Went out to the external light, cover half open full of water, took it down and water running from the PIR absolutely soaking wet.
Gone for a WEEE WEEE now.
In total there were 7 faults in the property, including borrowed neutrals, incorrectly connected ceiling roses, missing earths at the sockets, L and neutral reversed at sockets.
So a PIR and CU change turned into 3 and a half days of work, changing the tails was possibly the worst part WALL, CAVITY, WALL!!!!!
Nope, just a normal circuit.
I'd install a dedicated circuit if the loading was high, but if not, just come off a local lighting circuit.
There is no need for a fused spur. I think there may have beenyears ago, but certainly not to the 16th / 17th edition
I'd install a dedicated circuit if the loading was high, but if not, just come off a local lighting circuit.
There is no need for a fused spur. I think there may have beenyears ago, but certainly not to the 16th / 17th edition
Is it possible for the 250v DC voltage to damage anything on L/N when IR testing? Or is this the best way to make sure that nothing is still in circuit before using 500v?
Only reason I ask is that I was recently helping out on a job where we thought everything was out of the circuit. It turned out we had missed a PIR controlled floodlight and ended up sending 500v through L/N on IR test. It came out unscathed but we decided we had been lucky...
Yes, transformers can be damaged by DC as the current flow at DC is far greater that the current when AC is applied and the primary winding may overheat and fail.
The 4mA or so that the Insulation Tester can deliver probably wont do any damage, where there is a lowish resistance circuit present the voltage will not be that great, I doubt the tester will ever get anywhere near 250v.
Just because there's no indication of low IR when testing at 250vDC doesn't mean it's safe to go ahead with 500vDC. It's a circuit that you're not familiar with so you can't say with any great certainty that all vulnerable equipment is disconnected.
As I said earlier, it's something to discuss with the client though there's nothing at all wrong with testing L+N to E.
Still, your insurance may as well be used
As I said earlier, it's something to discuss with the client though there's nothing at all wrong with testing L+N to E.
Still, your insurance may as well be used
With a 4mA limit on the current I would agree damage would be very un-likely to occur.
Thanks for clarifying RF. 
i must say I get confused as to some of the interpretation of the regs i've read & tried to understand.. (from a diy'er perspective)
for example :-
outdoor security lights can be connected to a lighting circuit & arent classed as outside lights in a special area although an outside ip rated waterproof socket fitted to the external wall of the house is....
a light fitting or socket can be changed in the kitchen but not installed from new
a new set of sockets can be connected to an existing trip in a CU although not a completely new circuit.... (would've thought they would have limited any interaction with the CU personally....
I know there are things to consider in creating a new circuit, like load on the CU, cable sizing & routing, positioning, safe zones & distance from water / appliances, although this is required wether its 2 new sockets or 20, so why the decision as it is?
I've never ever had a fault in any of the installations i've ever done, not once... but trying to work as a diy'er within the "allowed" restraints is prooving hard to understand at time ....
i must say I get confused as to some of the interpretation of the regs i've read & tried to understand.. (from a diy'er perspective)
for example :-
outdoor security lights can be connected to a lighting circuit & arent classed as outside lights in a special area although an outside ip rated waterproof socket fitted to the external wall of the house is....
a light fitting or socket can be changed in the kitchen but not installed from new
a new set of sockets can be connected to an existing trip in a CU although not a completely new circuit....
(would've thought they would have limited any interaction with the CU personally....I know there are things to consider in creating a new circuit, like load on the CU, cable sizing & routing, positioning, safe zones & distance from water / appliances, although this is required wether its 2 new sockets or 20, so why the decision as it is?
I've never ever had a fault in any of the installations i've ever done, not once... but trying to work as a diy'er within the "allowed" restraints is prooving hard to understand at time ....
It sounds like you have been reading the Approved Document P which is guidance on part p issued by the government. Not all of it is 100% correct in respect with what the law says, the law itself does not allow you to fit an an outside light without first notifying (and paying) your LABC to oversee compliance with the building regs.
However, having read the approved document I can imagine that you would get away with not notifying it.
You can replace socket outlets in a kitchen as long as you do not add any. Similar with lights / switches.
I don't follow what you mean by a new set of sockets?
You can add to an existing circuit from a consumer unit, for example you may create a spur from a ring final circuit at the CU so long as it doesn't involve work in a special location, a kitchen or associated with a special installation.
The things you need to consider for a new circuit also need to be considered when adding to an existing one. Whatever work you carry out, notifiable or not, you still need to comply with P1 - "P1 Reasonable provision shall be made in the design and installation of electrical installations in order to protect persons operating, maintaining or altering the installations from fire or injury. "
However, having read the approved document I can imagine that you would get away with not notifying it.
You can replace socket outlets in a kitchen as long as you do not add any. Similar with lights / switches.
I don't follow what you mean by a new set of sockets?
You can add to an existing circuit from a consumer unit, for example you may create a spur from a ring final circuit at the CU so long as it doesn't involve work in a special location, a kitchen or associated with a special installation.
The things you need to consider for a new circuit also need to be considered when adding to an existing one. Whatever work you carry out, notifiable or not, you still need to comply with P1 - "P1 Reasonable provision shall be made in the design and installation of electrical installations in order to protect persons operating, maintaining or altering the installations from fire or injury. "
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local