Halstead Finest Gold Boiler Lockout Problem?Anyone Know Why?

[Frogmania]

I have a problem with my Halstead Finest Gold boiler as I see many others have on here. The problem is that the boiler lockout light comes on about 2 or 3 seconds after the boiler has fired up shutting down the boiler. After using the reset switch the same problem reoccurs after about 2 or 3 attempts (sometimes a lot more) the boiler runs for a while. However, after about 5 min or so the boiler consistently seems to shut down (with no lockout light this time) and won’t run at all until it has been turned off for quite some time. Needless to say this makes trying to use the boiler at all a pointless task particularly since that while DHW does come out hot for the time the boiler is running the CH hardly seems to heat up at all since the CH flow pipe from the boiler seems to be cool even though the burner appears to be firing.

I have already had a lot of work done on the boiler recently and this is the problem I have been left with which is not all too dissimilar to the original problem i.e. the boiler kept shutting off providing insufficient DHW or did not start up at all. The guy I called out replaced the Fan, Thermistors, PCB board and suggested replacing the overheat Thermostat at which point I decided he did not really know what was wrong and was just clutching at straws with a new story as to what was wrong each time! To test my theory I replaced the overheat Thermostat myself a simple job as it turns out and surprise, surprise the same fault continued to persist, I had just saved myself £50 labour charge as a result. I am of course dubious now whether any of the above really needed fixing in the first place but of course proving that is another matter. It appears to me that just because someone is Corgi registered it is no indication that they are actually competent or not. I have seen other stories on here of Corgi registered people that seem to be more clueless than the customers they are supposed to be helping. I do not think that the guy I had out was dodgy since it would not have been worthwhile the 10+ times he came out compared to the labour he charged. However, to avoid wasting more money I don’t really have I would be grateful if anyone has any ideas as to what the problem may be ?

 

[twgas]

is there water in the boiler? pressure gauge should read 1-1½bar when cold.

is the pump running when there's a demand.

 

[ChrisR]

I am of course dubious now whether any of the above really needed fixing in the first place but of course proving that is another matter. It appears to me that just because someone is Corgi registered it is no indication that they are actually competent or not.

To get yourself Corgi registered, and be deemed competent to work on a boiler, you only have to know in general principles how one works, and to be able to read the manual. So Corgi registration is of only minimal relevance when it comes to mending the things. It is not a requirement that you are not a stupid dork.

ANyone who changes a fan on a HFG when it isn't necessary, is a stupid dork. You have, to be sure, got a right one there.

There are many things which can cause the sort of problem you have. Probably, yer man checked many of them, but probably wouldn't have said. Some, like eg the performance of the microswich on the primary flow sensor, anyone can check, but some of them are gas-related, so we can't go into detail. Cut your losses and get a better boiler bloke.

FIrst though, you could check the startup routine it goes through whenever power is first applied. That takes about 10 seconds. If it finds a problem in that , it'll lock out without attempting to fire. Does it do that?
The fan should run, and it checks the air flows.
Then the pump starts, and it checks the water flows.
If so far so good, it sits there waiting for a call for heat or hot water. If not, one of those basics is giving the problem.
The Manual says the same as I just did, maybe it'll make more sense now?

The pcb on that boiler does give intermittent faults. Did he leave the new one in or put the old one back?

 

[Frogmania]

Thanks Chris, help most apprieciated. Made sure he left the old PCB and saw him unwrap presumably new PCB board so I think PCB should be o.k. As stated above the lockout seems to happen after the boiler has fired up. The boiler on light comes on indicating it has fired up and I can hear it fire up as well as see the pilot light when the exterior cover is off. Fan seems to come on and as a new one was fitted I doubt problem would be there. As far as I know pump is running though I did wonder whether there might be a problem here as the CH does not seem to get particlularly warm as described above. However, sometimes I can get hot water out of the tap after getting past lockout for a time before boiler shuts down (as above) so I'm not sure whether pump is needed for DHW as much for CH. The only other thought I have had looking at the flow chart is maybe the gas valve, would this cause heating to shut out if it is faulty? Obviously I would not mess around with this myself would check on PCB board with voltmeter but I am not really that clued up on voltmeters and want to be sure I am not causing any damage if I were to use one.
The pressure gauge is between 1-1.5 bar so I really don't think there is a problem here and I have tried addding a little more but to no affect. I guess the main idea with finding out what the problem is so I hopefully I don't get another stupid dork as you so aptly put it wasting lots of my time and money only to leave me with a boiler still not working. Yes, I have certainly cut my losses there, he won't be coming back. Problem is finding someone who is competant since despite trade guides, recommendations, etc. it seems you often don't seem to know whether anyone is any good until it is too late. Anyway, thank you for your input I am grateful for any help given.

 

[gas4you]

Could be simply a flame rectification problem.

Have all the leads and connections been checked?

 

[evilmonkey]

Hi, we have the same problem and lots of other posts suggest cleaning the venturi in case it has something blocking it (apparently a common problem in halsteads). Worth a try!

 

[Kristoflampie]

Venturis are a pain on all Halsteads of the era, either partially obstructed with corrosion or plastic ones melted down. Either way when it goes to high flame the air switch drops out and locks out.

 

[dino140]

i had this problem for the last two years manage to get ripped off with a few engineers but finally an engineer who told me that the cause was the heat exchangers needed cleaning with an industrial strenght descaler ( if really bad may new heat exchanger ) he charged me £ 45 and boiler was back to new ( well it was with all the other parts changed from previous engineers )i its good to look at the venturi as well fairly easy to do but my money is on the heat exchangers

 

[DP]

Dino, early days yet. £45 for a chemical cleanse. Either you are easily amused or the guy providing the service cannot count (money)