Hammer-in fixings

[deko]

I'm trying to order some fixings to hold 42mm batterns to a wall. I know this might seem like stupid question but, does the fixing go completely into the wall or partly into the wall and partly into the batten?

I've drawn a diagram to explain...

View media item 13423
Which case is correct, A or B?
(black=plug, grey=screw)

Also how far into a 100mm should I be looking to sink the fixing, given that these battens will be holding 18mm wbp ply, 12.5mm plasterboard and pine wall cupboards? Will 40mm be enough or do I need to go to 60mm?

Thank You
d.

 

[deko]

Aha, thanks to the fischer website I have my answer to the first part, case A is correct.

Now just need to find out if I can get away with an 80mm fixing as opposed to a 100mm.

 

[r896neo]

i would go for 4inch, as for fixing if there are a lot to do you should try anchor sleeves, very quick and easy to use. A bitch to get out should you ever need to though.

 

[deko]

A **** to get out

Now that sounds like the right tool for the job

 

[^woody^]

The wall material will make a difference.

Brick or dense concrete will take fixings well, thermalite/areated or less dense/no fines blocks will not

Typical hammer fix can easily start to spin if the hole is not just right, and I prefer the window anchor type which pulls a plug back into the fixing to expand it and give a much better hold

For sound walls, 40mm is enough, otherwise go for 50mm - this does not include the depth of any plaster.

300-400mm vertical spacing depending on the wall material

For crumbly walls, try the fischer wet 'n' fix pads - they work well to prevent loose fixings

 

[JohnD]

in an open-textured or crumbly wall, I have been very pleased with no-more-nails or similar.

Drill a hole that will comfortably take your plasplug, blow and wash out all the dust, put the nozzle right to the back of the hole so it fills from the end, and fill it, withdrawing the nozzle as you go so it is full with no empty air-pocket at the end. Insert and centre the plasplug, leave it to set. You can put a screw into the plug a couple of turns to use it as a handle for positioning the plug, and also so that you can find the hole the next day. Smooth off the nomorenails with a wet finger. The next day you can drive in your screw and it will be surprisingly firm and strong.

Note that the screw and plug must both penetrate deep into the brick or concrete. Plaster is more or less useless for strength.

This is a DIY method, you can also get professional resin injection kits which are doubtless better. They are also much more expensive.

 

[noseall]

We are using concrete screws at the mo' and do not even require a rawlplug.

In softer masonry (mainly aerated blocks) you don't even need to pilot, so long as you are armed with a decent cordless driver that is. In harder stuff a 6.5mm pilot hole is all you need. They grab like bu***ry, and are quick.

 

[noseall]

For 40mm battens i would use 100mm fixings.

 

[r896neo]

I agree with nose, the concrete screws are definately my preference over plug type hammer fixings. If you need to pack a lot, i.e your walls are not a great shape then the conc screws are the best bet as they self space and make packing easier, but for plumb flat walls, sleeve anchors are much quicker, drill your hole and hammer them home.

If your not sure what i'm talking about or of course i have got the name4 wrong i mean these

http://www.olympicfixings.co.uk/productDetail.aspx?productID=3463

 

[JohnD]

I haven't got aerated blocks so Noseall's suggestion may suit you better than mine. I have used it successfully in dense blocks, crumbly mortar, soft bricks and what looks like breeze or no-fines blocks.

It suits me because it's cheap and doesn't need special fixings or tools

 

[deko]

Thank you, a lot of fine suggestions here

I'm going to be working with red brick and it's pretty tough stuff. Looks to have been skimmed to about 10mm.

I'm in a terraced house and the wall I'm working with is shared with my neighbour. It's only 100mm thick so naturally I was a little paranoid about going through the other side. So just to reassure myself, with a 40mm batten, a 100mm fixing and a 100mm brick, I'm pretty safe right?
Well, providing I don't over drill the pilot hole and I don't drill in the same spot they've drilled

I just looked up concrete screws and that would seem to be a good option but are these a bit risky for brick? If I hit a soft bit with the fixing efectively be useless? Concrete more reliable?

Just so I can get this clear...

Hammer Fixing (me)
http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-id-4378-Fischer-Hammerfix-8mm-x-100mm-Pack-of-20.html

Window Fixing (^woody^)
http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-id-3464-Fischer-Frame-Fixing-10mm-x-100mm-Pack-of-12.html

Sleeve Anchor (r896neo?)
http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-id-8334-Hexagonal-Bolt-Sleeve-Anchors-Pack-10mm-x-100mm-of-4.html

Express Anchor (r896neo?)
http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-...mm-x-90mm-and-8mm-Drill-Trade-Pack-of-10.html

Not sure which one you meant r896neo, if express anchor then how is it different to a normal hammer fixing?

Using a combination of nomorenails and the hammer fixing like JohnD mentioned would also be an option.

Thanks
d.

 

[r896neo]

Don't worry about drilling into the neighbours, in a terrace at the very least you will have a solid 9inch wall or a cavity wall. the ones i was mentioning were the express anchors, As with any drilling on plastered brick walls you can not tell if your going into a brick or a joint and obviously fixing into a mortar joint will reduce the effectiveness. If its plastered bricks i'd give the anchors a miss and go with the concrete screws, also less violent.

 

[deko]

I'm pretty sure the wall is only a single skin (100mm thick). Otherwise the builder next door wouldn't have looked so puzzled when the RSJ he was installing came through into my kitchen
Luckily I had just finished gutting the place so the damage was easily fixed.

He said he had expected at least a 9 inche party wall