Hand plane

[Alison556]

I'm not very good at planing and I find when I use a power plane, I always manage to gouge big lumps out of the end of the wood.

So, I've found an old (and I mean old) hand plane that belonged to my grand-dad. It's a Record plane (and I think it's a smoothing plane) but I haven't got the first clue how to set it up. I've been hunting on the net for a guide but I'm not having much success.

Can anyone tell me how I do it please?

 

[Stivino]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plane_(tool)

http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/ww_shop/article/0,,DIY_14445_3442497,00.html

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2006/08/16/woodnet-forums-hand-planing-techniques/

 

[Alison556]

Brilliant, thank you. I hunted and hunted for some info and couldn't find anything like that - guess I couldn't have been searching the right words.

It really helps when you can actually identify the separate parts of it.

Now that I've found this old plane, I'm dying to go and tart it up and make it pretty again (is that sad.........??). Hey, it could be collectable.

But anyway, thanks again and it worked a treat - first time I've ever planed a door without splitting a big chunk out of the edge of it.

 

[RigidRaider]

I did this recently with a Miller's Falls plane I found in a second-hand tool shop. See: http://www.oldtools.co.uk/tools/miller_falls/miller_falls.php

I took the whole plane apart and repainted it, cleaned everything up and sharpened the blade. I already had a sharpening guide, which I find invaluable for keeping the right angle when sharpening my chisels. Now I have a lovely plane, which is a pleasure to use (when it's sharp) and has helped me with every one of the new doors I have fitted in my house.

One hint - never put your plane down upright, always lay it on its side to avoid blunting the blade.

 

[Alison556]

I feel like I'm being a right sad git but having used this plane I'm now pretty keen to get it looking new again - there's something about using an old tool. I managed so much better than with the electric one.

Need to really get it sussed how to set it up properly. I now know what all the bits are thanks to Stivino's links but I'm not sure when and why you would angle the blade. No matter - it did what I wanted it to do.

Must get one of these guides for sharpening the blade.

What did you use to clean the metal up? I found a site about restoring planes and he uses scotchbright wheels but also an electrolysis bath - just wondering if there's an easier way of doing it.

 

[Stivino]

Why don't you try posting in the woodwork and carpentry pages? Some of the more mature joiners will know all about these things.

 

[Alison556]

Oooh, how diplomatic!!!

I argued with myself which section to post this in - 50-50 choice and I picked tools.................

 

[pompeyal]

Hi, it may need a bit of work but to clean the metal try using wire wool with some light oil, if you go to a plumbers merchant the wool they use is somewhat courser than a scourer.

 

[RigidRaider]

At school in carpentry class we were taught to clean all the tools. We used emery cloth.

Be careful though on the chromed bits - trying to rub out some marks I actually went right through the chrome in one place and exposed a pinkish layer underneath, which I believe is nickel.

You can repaint the frog and the body with gloss enamel and the wooden parts with coloured varnish.

You are right about the satisfaction of using old tools, there's nothing nicer. I also ride a classic old steel framed bicycle and there's nothing nicer.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

I've ridden a few bikes in my time and I prefer the older ones too.

 

[Alison556]

It's not too rusty - nothing eating into it or anything - it's just got that "sitting about not being used for years" look about it.

So I'm gonna try a fine steel wool as suggested to see how that goes. I've now had a crash course on how to sharpen the blade courtesy of Keith Cruickshanks on Woodtrek.com and how to fettle the sole.

I'm off to find a honing guide tomorrow as well.

The only thing I'm not sure about is the lateral adjustment lever. Is it actually meant to sit straight up and down or is the whole point of it so that it doesn't matter what angle it sits at as long as you have the blade even across the mouth?

 

[pompeyal]

When you fit the blade, ensure that all parts are as near to being central prior to locking it down, this will then give you full adjustment of the blade either way using the lateral adjuster.

 

[xerxes]

It's worth checking that the sole is reasonably flat, and spending some time rectifying it if it isn't. There's a brief guide to how to go about it, and to other aspects of plane tuning, here.

 

[Alison556]

Well, I'm still at it. It takes bloomin ages to lap the sole and sides of the plane. I look like I've been down a flipping coal mine with all the black dust.

I think it's turning out nice though.

Got my honing guide and was all ready to do some blade sharpening then discovered the blooming sharpening stone is too narrow to accommodate the blade (so I did a chisel instead!!!! )

I've got a bit that I'm not sure where it came from though.................

View media item 4475
And despite vigorous buffing, my metal is getting funny blackish marks on it - dunno if you can see it in this pic. What am I doing wrong?

View media item 4476

 

[pompeyal]

With regard to your second picky, it looks like you have removed the chrome where it has gone dark, doh, now you have no protection of the steel below and will rust in time, maybe it will be a good idea rather than going to the expence of getting it re-chromed is to get a spray can of clear laquer from a car accessory shop and spray it for protection.