HardWaxOil on filled floorboards?

[MisterGumpy]

I'm looking to apply a finish to ropey Victorian pine floorboards. They've been damp and wormed in the past and thus very splintery. No matter how much we sanded, the grain continued to splinter. So we lightly filled the grain (standard polyfilla) then sanded smooth so that the delaminating grain no longer splinters.

Now we have a smooth surface and need to finish and seal it. I've seen Osmo Hardwaxoil recommended and would like to use the white first layer, both cos we like the look but also to disguise the filled areas.

My question is, does Hardwaxoil adhere to filler, or will the result be horribly patchy? I can't find any technical advice on this.

Thanks
Mister Gumpy

 

[mac391]

YES !! the result will be horribly patchy.. The pine will probably turn orange and the filler will not take at all with hardwax oil.

The best way to fill a floor if necessary is to keep the sanding dust and mix with lecol, so the same colour goes back in.

Sounds like your floor is still moisture contaminated.

Even if and when it dries out the polyfilla will not take the same as the wood.

2 options, remove the polyfilla or abandon the project i'm afraid.

 

[MisterGumpy]

Blimey that was close...

Removing the filler isn't an option - you haven't seen the floor! So, painting the boards might be the last resort - I really don't want to lose them as they're about the last original thing in the house.

I guess two coats of primer/undercoat then normal low VOC floor paint. Any recommendations? I used Johnstone's floor paint before (on hardboard) but it was high VOC and stank for a month. And it looks grubby after six months...

 

[mac391]

If you want to keep the floor how it is you could try a sample board with the white osmo oil. Realy, the idea of the white osmo is to give a limed oak effect. you brush it into the grain and it is a lovely effect.

Works great with oak and stays that colour. Your trouble i fear is you will have to apply it more heavily in several coats but it is designed to be applied thinly!!

I still think the moisture in your floor will show through shortly aferwards and discolour it.. If you have patience try 1 plank and wait!!

If not, i'm no paint expert but most woodworm treatments are water based now so either a water based floor paint or an oil based paint should work.

Remember,, if a spirit based woodworm treatment was used, a water based low voc paint might not work. Best bet is to ask whoever treated your floors initially.

Sorry can't be of more help..

 

[mack4]

They've been damp and wormed in the past and thus very splintery. No matter how much we sanded, the grain continued to splinter. So we lightly filled the grain (standard polyfilla) then sanded smooth so that the delaminating grain no longer splinters.

To sort boards which are feathering/splintering,I would apply some cyanoacrylate glue give it some time to penetrate as deeply as possible then spray the activator on it, you can hold it down with a chisel.Do it before the final sanding.
mack