You can get a pump start/end surge from the vent pipe if there is any air in a part of the system.
Are all the rads well bled?
Is the vent going up at least 450 mm above the F&E level?
Tony
I see above as a plumbing issue rather than what the boiler change has done.
If the water level in the vent drops, it is because the vent is on the suction side of the pump. The F+E pipe will be on the positive side of the pump. When the pump runs, water is pulled down in the vent and pushed up the F+E pipe into the cistern. If the F+E pipe was indeed blocked, water in the vent would not dip (unless an air bubble in the system could absorb rise in pressure).
When pump stops, system water finds its own level. Water in the vent rushes up the vent, past the level of the water in the header tank to spurt out before settling at the same level as the header tank water
Positioning of the two pipes to the header tank, in relation to the pump, is incorrect. These pipes are influenced by the pump. I as a heating engineer would be looking at the plumbing runs to ensure pump is located in the correct position.
Well, that's how it's plumbed and it does pump over. It's always been a pumped system - the house is only 10 years old and we moved into it from new.It looks to me the system was originally a gravity HW system with pumped heating zone, which has been converted to fully pumped without plumbing alterations. Often (for gravity HW systems) the pump was fitted in the return from the rads, but with no mechanical force (like a pump) in the gravity loop, system functioned correctly. Be aware, feed and vents would have been connected to the system at or near the indirect coil (not influenced by pump)
When a gravity HW zone is converted to fully pumped, without remodelling the F+E and vent locations, pump over is often the result (in this case suction- same thing)
Visualise a feed connection on a boiler. Let the pipe plumbed to this connection have two tees fitted to it (max 150mm between tees). First tee (branch 22mm) is connected to the vent pipe, second tee (15 branch) connects to F+E pipe. Then comes the pump inlet. Such a pipe run will mean both vent and feed pipes are at the pressure, so even blocked feed pipe, will not result in pump over.
Sure, but we seem to be running out of candidates.I suspect this problem has always been there but new boiler characteristics have brought to light an existent anomaly.
Also, watching it do it, the water has plenty of lime scale in it - both dissolved and in flakes.
Peering into the F&E tank with a 1,000,000cd halogen lamp can be quite revealing. Of course I'm only guessing, but the water is milky white with white flakes - just like looking into a scaled-up kettle. Our water is chronic with lime here in Dorset. This is after the system was over-pumping and overflowing for a while so plenty of fresh water has been through I guess.Also, watching it do it, the water has plenty of lime scale in it - both dissolved and in flakes.
How can you watch water and know whats dissolved in it?
Any flakes are most unlikely to be lime scale which is whitish!
I would expect that any dirt is primarily metal oxides!
In any case any visible particles indicate a serious contamination issue and the likelyhood of much pipe blockage.
I thought you had said that it had been power flushed. With noticeable flakes in it then it certainle has not been flushed in any way!
Just out of interest can you advise the make & model of the old boiler please.
my advise would be check that the pump has been fitted the right way. usually an arrow on the pump for direction of flow. the arrow should be pointing towards the 3 way valve. another thing would be to reduce pump speed. usually 3 speed levels with these pumps try the lowest setting first. the old pump may have been set at a slower speed to accomodate existing problems with pipework.
There's two high points of course - one either side of the 3-port. At the moment there's just an auto valve on the HW side. But this seems useless as any air trapped when HW only is going stays in that circuit. only when both CH & HW are running does the air get out and collect in the rads.ive had this problem a few times before when changing open vented boilers. complete headache for the plumber and customer. auto air vents def need to be fitted to the highest point in the airing cuboard! this is a must!!
The height of the "up & over" return loop of the vent pipe should be a minimum of 450mm above the water level in the F&E cistern but, in some cases, may need to be higher.
Both feed and vent go straight up from the pump then along horizontally until they reach the tank.
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