Has the Tower Two Port Valve been Redesigned?

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8 Jun 2010
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Further to my thread about the sticky microswitch, I've been searching for suppliers, and have found one source offering replacement heads in addition to complete units.

On mine the head is not removable, without removing the motor & plate.

As mine is nearly 30 years old, I'm wondering whether the valve has been resigned, and whether the new components would be compatible.

In a posting to another forum I noticed that the op had reported a water leak when he attempted to remove the head.

Does this ring any distant bells with anyone?

TIA
 
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30 Year old tower valves did not have a removable head . Sticking microswitch wd40 fixes them.
If valve spindle is stiff and stopping mechanism return away from switch new complete valve
 
30 Year old tower valves did not have a removable head . Sticking microswitch wd40 fixes them.
If valve spindle is stiff and stopping mechanism return away from switch new complete valve

Many thanks for that namsag.

I did put a bit of WD40 on it, some time ago. That helped at the time, but the problem came back after a few months.

AFAIK the valve spindle isn't unduly stiff.

Sorry, but I don't understand what you mean by "stopping mechanism return away from switch" The valve certainly closes when power is removed, but I can't see whether the actuating mechanism has cleared the micro switch.

To avoid having to drain part of the system I'm reluctant to change the whole valve. Can any of the mechanism parts from a new valve, be fitted to the old one?

TIA for any further help.

Cheers
 
Rent a freeze master for a day freeze the flow to the heating and cylinder and shut the pump valves then change the valve no draining required, or bung the feed and expansion and airlock the system and change the valve.
 
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Rent a freeze master for a day freeze the flow to the heating and cylinder and shut the pump valves then change the valve no draining required, or bung the feed and expansion and airlock the system and change the valve.

Thanks Jordon for your suggestions.

I feel that both methods are for experienced plumbers, who can change the valve quickly!

I'll have another look at the microswitch and it's actuating mechanism. Try a bit more WD40. Replace the switch if WD40 doesn't work.

If the problem still persists, I get a local plumber to replace the valve.

Thanks to everyone who helped.
 

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