Heated floor with tiles better than heated floor with Karndean or other?

Joined
29 May 2011
Messages
45
Reaction score
0
Location
Dorset
Country
United Kingdom
Hello,

We're entering the world of flooring and have made the decision to have Underfloor heating (wet) for flexibility and a general cosy feeling, and are now bouncing around between Engineered Oak floor...possibly mixed with ceramic decorative tiles around the kitchen area...or...new into the mix Karndean..Polyfloor instead of the tiles but alongside the Engineered Oak...or even Karndean etc throughout the whole ground floor and no wood or ceramic tiles!....so pretty uncertain really!

Questions.

1- Does a heated tiled floor really overcome the argument of cold floors created by a tiled floor, making Karndean or Wood no better?

2 - With short tiles of Karndean etc (typically 1.4m I think) does it look a bit too fusy when used in large areas unlike long lengths (2m) of Engineered wood planks?

3- Over a large area is it probable that repeat patterns would be easy to spot in Karndea..etc floors?

4- Does owning an Engineered floor really take more effort to keep looking OK over a Karndean type floor?

5- I'm guessing that Underfloor heating works brilliantly quickly compared to a thick Engineered floor in terms of getting to temperature?

Anyone able to chip in on any of these questions will be given my eternal thanks....cheers!

Bo
 
Sponsored Links
Hello,

We're entering the world of flooring and have made the decision to have Underfloor heating (wet) for flexibility and a general cosy feeling, and are now bouncing around between Engineered Oak floor...possibly mixed with ceramic decorative tiles around the kitchen area...or...new into the mix Karndean..Polyfloor instead of the tiles but alongside the Engineered Oak...or even Karndean etc throughout the whole ground floor and no wood or ceramic tiles!....so pretty uncertain really!

Questions.

1- Does a heated tiled floor really overcome the argument of cold floors created by a tiled floor, making Karndean or Wood no better?

2 - With short tiles of Karndean etc (typically 1.4m I think) does it look a bit too fusy when used in large areas unlike long lengths (2m) of Engineered wood planks?

3- Over a large area is it probable that repeat patterns would be easy to spot in Karndea..etc floors?

4- Does owning an Engineered floor really take more effort to keep looking OK over a Karndean type floor?

5- I'm guessing that Underfloor heating works brilliantly quickly compared to a thick Engineered floor in terms of getting to temperature?

Anyone able to chip in on any of these questions will be given my eternal thanks....cheers!

Bo

1: If you run the heating over long periods of time/constantly set on a low setting, then yes, tiled and stone floors will be lovely and warm.
2. Choose your floor plank carefully to suit your prefered look.
3. Repeats are only really noticeable in installs where planks aren't spaced sensibly or you go looking for them.
4. Engineered is real wood so looks like real wood, there are 3 popular surface finishes, Lacquered, UV Oiled or Oiled/Waxed and it is this which will make a difference to how easy the floor is to live with. Lacquered will be similar to a LVT, UV Oiled offers some protection but not as much as Lacquered although you walk on the real wood surface and Oiled/Waxed will be a nightmare to keep looking perfect.
5. I would advise fitting the Engineered Flooring floating on a Underfloor heating specific underlay like Duralay Heatflow for wood floors, it will take longer to warm up than LVT but will hold heat longer and more evenly. It is advisable to leave the heating on most of the winter months continuously on a low setting to avoid prolonged heating/cooling/heating.

Things to consider: LVT is plastic, it looks like plastic, feels like plastic it is rock hard underfoot especially over concrete/cement subfloor bases. Also, even when installed on adhesives for underfloor heating, LVT is prone to gapping at joints, Engineered is not.
 
1: If you run the heating over long periods of time/constantly set on a low setting, then yes, tiled and stone floors will be lovely and warm.
2. Choose your floor plank carefully to suit your prefered look.
3. Repeats are only really noticeable in installs where planks aren't spaced sensibly or you go looking for them.
4. Engineered is real wood so looks like real wood, there are 3 popular surface finishes, Lacquered, UV Oiled or Oiled/Waxed and it is this which will make a difference to how easy the floor is to live with. Lacquered will be similar to a LVT, UV Oiled offers some protection but not as much as Lacquered although you walk on the real wood surface and Oiled/Waxed will be a nightmare to keep looking perfect.
5. I would advise fitting the Engineered Flooring floating on a Underfloor heating specific underlay like Duralay Heatflow for wood floors, it will take longer to warm up than LVT but will hold heat longer and more evenly. It is advisable to leave the heating on most of the winter months continuously on a low setting to avoid prolonged heating/cooling/heating.

Things to consider: LVT is plastic, it looks like plastic, feels like plastic it is rock hard underfoot especially over concrete/cement subfloor bases. Also, even when installed on adhesives for underfloor heating, LVT is prone to gapping at joints, Engineered is not.
 
Thanks Dave,

That's some great & detailed information.

Having spent a bit more time looking at this stuff, some manufacturers of Engineered are saying that I must have at least 6mm ply AND a suitable underlay..like a 2mm thermal thing...between the UFH and their Engineered floor.

Which makes levels a problem.

I'm gravitating towards a looselay Karndean long board layed onto a T&G 18mm ply floor.
 
Sponsored Links
Thanks Dave,

That's some great & detailed information.

Having spent a bit more time looking at this stuff, some manufacturers of Engineered are saying that I must have at least 6mm ply AND a suitable underlay..like a 2mm thermal thing...between the UFH and their Engineered floor.

Which makes levels a problem.

I'm gravitating towards a looselay Karndean long board layed onto a T&G 18mm ply floor.

Depends on the level and finish of the UFH as to if you need additional 6mm Ply.

One thing I would do without fail is strictly adhere to whatever the manufacturer recommends regarding acclimatising whatever product you choose prior to fitting.

With click system LVT it may be worth looking at Parador HDF LVT and Parador Solid LVT ranges, a real quality German click LVT that’s worthy of consideration against the Karndean
 
Thanks Dave,

I'll look at Parador.

I wasn't looking at any clik LVT but the loose lay as its a longboard type. However I've had different views from fitters as to avoid it and it's great!....so a bit stumped, as I know its probably better to follow convention but i like the look of a longer and wider board. is it just a case that some fitters are protective of their craft?...which i can understand.

im struggling to find 18mm T&G plywood for a structural sub floor on which to lay the LVT, I dont want to lay 18mm chipboard which has a poor thermal transfer rate, and then 6mm ply to meet LVT needs.

Is 18mm T&G a bit special?
 
Thanks Dave,

I'll look at Parador.

I wasn't looking at any clik LVT but the loose lay as its a longboard type. However I've had different views from fitters as to avoid it and it's great!....so a bit stumped, as I know its probably better to follow convention but i like the look of a longer and wider board. is it just a case that some fitters are protective of their craft?...which i can understand.

im struggling to find 18mm T&G plywood for a structural sub floor on which to lay the LVT, I dont want to lay 18mm chipboard which has a poor thermal transfer rate, and then 6mm ply to meet LVT needs.

Is 18mm T&G a bit special?

Fitters usually recommend product based on ‘ease of fitting’ ‘results/problems in the past’ and how much they can make from fitting in my experience.


I generally find that a decent independent retailer will be able to give detailed pro’s and cons on product quality and suitability etc.

With regards 18mm T&G I have no idea, speak direct to a timber merchants?
 
Thanks Dave,

Just found 18mm T&G ply at Arnold Laver @ £12.50 sqm....its a distance away to deliver (2hrs) but the closest I could get. They also do 22mm but its 30% more...do you think I need the extra thickness for what I'm looking to do?
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top