Heatrae Sadia Megaflo - thermostat or element?

[andfinally]

Evening all.. My Heatrae Sadia Megaflo DD 210 direct water heater packed up yesterday. The bottom element has never worked - I've just been using the top element for the last 5 years. Yesterday that element also stopped working.

I discovered the little thermal cutout button on the thermostat had popped out. I pushed it in again, but it popped out again today. When I push it in again the water heats, but there's a smell of hot electrical components. Does it sound like I just need a new thermostat, or do I need to call in a plumber and get a couple of new elements at £180 a pop?

Also, anyone ever used generic parts in a Megaflo? I'm wondering if I can get away with buying non-branded 11" elements.

 

[CBF]

what you need is someone with the G3 cert for unvented cylinders

 

[CBF]

Edit............... double post

 

[andfinally]

Hm, OK thanks CBF

 

[Agile]

I am always amazed why some people leave a faulty situation for as long as five years when they depend on it for hot water.

Depending on the installation, the lower element is usually supplied by off peak metered electricity which is about a third of the cost of the on peak which is supplied to upper element.

If that applies to you then you have probably been paying £300 a year for heating water rather then the off peak charge of about £120 pa.

That difference would have paid in the first year for getting it repaired!

That maker cleverly uses their own special elements so that they can charge premium prices for their spares.

Tony Glazier

 

[andfinally]

Thanks Tony.. sensible advice. I had no idea about the lower element being off-peak, though I don't have Economy 7 and I don't know if the element's wired up for off-peak in my case.

 

[Agile]

It would be extremely unusual and very expensive indeed if you have an electric only flat not on some kind of dual rate tarriff.

Economy 7 was only one supplier's name for a dual rate.

Even with a dual rate tariff a modern two bed flat woul be about £600pa but on a standard tariff that could be £1400pa.

Look at your meter to see if it has a normal and low rate registers and then at your bill to see what that shows.

Regardless, your cylinder needs serious attention to repair!

Tony

 

[xr4x4]

Always use the bottom element to heat the tank, as the top one will never heat the full tank.

Eco 7 is a con, yes you pay less at night but your day rate will be higher than non Eco 7.

 

[Agile]

Its not a con!

But to be useful you need to heat water and storage heaters at night.

My work colleagues used to do their washing clothes and dishes overnight and one even held off the freezer for the hour before the cheap period!

Tony

 

[andfinally]

I've just been turning on the heater when I needed a shower, that's how I've managed on just the top element.

 

[andfinally]

Groan - Pimlico Plumbers just sent a man who hummed and hahed and sucked his teeth, then charged me £98 for the privilege of hearing what I phoned them about, i.e. I need two new elements. Their price on two is £208, in case useful to anybody else.

 

[matt1e]

Groan - Pimlico Plumbers just sent a man who hummed and hahed and sucked his teeth, then charged me £98 for the privilege of hearing what I phoned them about, i.e. I need two new elements. Their price on two is £208, in case useful to anybody else.

no you don't, from your first post you just need a new stat for your top element

you may need a new element for the bottom though

Matt

 

[xr4x4]

Holly crap.. Are ss elements that expensive..

I'd drive to London and do it myself for that money..!

 

[andfinally]

The Pimlico guy wasn't sure whether it was stat or element - current was going through both OK.. there was a bit of scaling and some signs of elec burning on the outside of both. Is there any way to tell if it's the stat and not the element? Cylinder's about 10 years old I'd guess.

 

[matt1e]

The Pimlico guy wasn't sure whether it was stat or element - current was going through both OK.. there was a bit of scaling and some signs of elec burning on the outside of both. Is there any way to tell if it's the stat and not the element? Cylinder's about 10 years old I'd guess.

he wasn't sure?
element heats water when ok,doesn't at all (or very poorly) or trips/blows fuses when not.
stat should switch element off when at set temperature
if the button is popping out then its either due to the water overheating or its faulty
either way you need a new stat

if the element is badly scaled then change it or descale it