Heatrae Sadia Megaflo - thermostat or element?
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Cheers Matt - hard to tell how scaled the element is without taking it out - it's so expensive getting a plumber out it seems like it might be sensible to replace the whole thing, in case the element turns out to be dodgy too.
Yeah Paul - when you're an ignorant civilian you're pretty much at their mercy.
Yeah Paul - when you're an ignorant civilian you're pretty much at their mercy.
What you should of done was to phone them up and say 'I have a Heatrae Sadia Megaflo DD 210 direct water heater and I would like 2 new elements fitted, how much will that cost'?
If they want to come and have a look at it then that's there choice.
Andy
If they want to come and have a look at it then that's there choice.
Andy
Thanks a lot for your advice folks - I'm starting to feel comprehensively ripped off by Pimlico Plumbers, and want to limit further cost. I'm going to get a multimeter tomorrow morning and try and check myself if the top element is OK.
Found some clear instructions here http://www.ehow.co.uk/how_5883425_test-water-heater-element-multimeter.html. I've got to locate the screws that connect the elemeent with the wires that supply it power. But most of the images and videos on the web show weird American heaters, where the stat and element are easy to tell apart. Can anyone tell me where the stat ends in my case and the element begins? Where can I find the connectors to the element?
These are the tests, apparently..
Test 1 - Power - compare power in each wire to element with cylinder body - should be no voltage.
Test 2 - Continuity - switch meter to RX1K - disconnect one of the element wires and touch probes on both connector screws - should get a reading.
Test 3 - Earth - with meter still on RX1K, touch one connector screw and cylinder body - should be no reading. Repeat with the other screw.
Here's what my element head looks like.
Cheers
Fred
Found some clear instructions here http://www.ehow.co.uk/how_5883425_test-water-heater-element-multimeter.html. I've got to locate the screws that connect the elemeent with the wires that supply it power. But most of the images and videos on the web show weird American heaters, where the stat and element are easy to tell apart. Can anyone tell me where the stat ends in my case and the element begins? Where can I find the connectors to the element?
These are the tests, apparently..
Test 1 - Power - compare power in each wire to element with cylinder body - should be no voltage.
Test 2 - Continuity - switch meter to RX1K - disconnect one of the element wires and touch probes on both connector screws - should get a reading.
Test 3 - Earth - with meter still on RX1K, touch one connector screw and cylinder body - should be no reading. Repeat with the other screw.
Here's what my element head looks like.
Cheers
Fred
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Fred don't play with it, just get both elements replaced.
Andy
Andy
Hm, OK thanks mate.
Update in case useful to any fellow DIY ignoramuses..
matt1e was right - the stat on my top element was broken. When the water heats up but doesn't stop heating up till the safety thermal cutout on the stat pops, that's a good clue where the fault lies.
If your bottom element works OK, an easy thing to try is to put the stat from the bottom element into the top element. The stats are dead easy to change - you don't need to drain the cylinder because the stat rod fits into a watertight sleeve.
***Make absolutely sure all your power is off!*** then disconnect the elec wires from the connector screws, and gently pull the stat directly out, horizontally towards you. It's only held in by a pair of clips. You might have to waggle it a bit to loosen it.
This is what it looks like when pulled out.
This shows the thermal cutout - tiny red button that pops out when the element overheats. This is your first thing to try if you have problems - press it in again with a pen point, it should give an audible click if it has popped out. But be careful and keep an eye on your cylinder if you turn it on again afterwards - the cutout is a safety feature to deal with overheating, and if the heater's overheating there may be a problem with your stat that must be attended to.
The temperature setting in this pic is where you set the general heat you're aiming for - mine was set to about 4, which was fairly hot. The power connectors are where the elec wires connect the stat to your mains.
This is the back of the stat showing the two prongs that hold it in and pass the mains current to the element.
From what I've been reading on the interwebs, these Cotherm stats on Heatrae Sadia Megaflos are prone to fail after a while. Apparently they've brought out a new version to replace them - it's white instead of black. If you buy a stat it's probably worthwhile making sure you get one of the new type.
If you need an element, you can get element + stat for about £45 on eBay.
Side note -- when I cancelled my second booking with Pimlico Plumbers they wanted to charge me for the parts they'd ordered from their supplier. But I found there are some excellent rules called "Cancellation of Contracts made in a Consumer's Home or Place of Work etc Regulations 2008" which mean you can cancel a contract made in your home within 7 days. So you're not obliged to pay suppliers for such orders, and you're entitled to a refund if you paid a deposit. See http://www.which.co.uk/consumer-rights/buying-services/how-to-cancel-a-contract/your-rights/ for details.
matt1e was right - the stat on my top element was broken. When the water heats up but doesn't stop heating up till the safety thermal cutout on the stat pops, that's a good clue where the fault lies.
If your bottom element works OK, an easy thing to try is to put the stat from the bottom element into the top element. The stats are dead easy to change - you don't need to drain the cylinder because the stat rod fits into a watertight sleeve.
***Make absolutely sure all your power is off!*** then disconnect the elec wires from the connector screws, and gently pull the stat directly out, horizontally towards you. It's only held in by a pair of clips. You might have to waggle it a bit to loosen it.This is what it looks like when pulled out.
This shows the thermal cutout - tiny red button that pops out when the element overheats. This is your first thing to try if you have problems - press it in again with a pen point, it should give an audible click if it has popped out. But be careful and keep an eye on your cylinder if you turn it on again afterwards - the cutout is a safety feature to deal with overheating, and if the heater's overheating there may be a problem with your stat that must be attended to.
The temperature setting in this pic is where you set the general heat you're aiming for - mine was set to about 4, which was fairly hot. The power connectors are where the elec wires connect the stat to your mains.
This is the back of the stat showing the two prongs that hold it in and pass the mains current to the element.
From what I've been reading on the interwebs, these Cotherm stats on Heatrae Sadia Megaflos are prone to fail after a while. Apparently they've brought out a new version to replace them - it's white instead of black. If you buy a stat it's probably worthwhile making sure you get one of the new type.
If you need an element, you can get element + stat for about £45 on eBay.
Side note -- when I cancelled my second booking with Pimlico Plumbers they wanted to charge me for the parts they'd ordered from their supplier. But I found there are some excellent rules called "Cancellation of Contracts made in a Consumer's Home or Place of Work etc Regulations 2008" which mean you can cancel a contract made in your home within 7 days. So you're not obliged to pay suppliers for such orders, and you're entitled to a refund if you paid a deposit. See http://www.which.co.uk/consumer-rights/buying-services/how-to-cancel-a-contract/your-rights/ for details.
Thats amazing that you choose about the most expensive plumbing firm in London!
Depending on location I would have charged you an £84 diagnostic fee plus the cost of the two stats ( if that was what was required. ) But I seem to remember last one I bought was about £46 from PC.
If you needed a new element then an extra £60 for draining/refilling as thats usually quite time consuming plus cost of elements which I also thought was close to £50 each?
Thanks agile, you're right - I've learned my lesson, hopefully.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heatrae-s...earing_Cooling_Air&hash=item1c2e4a2b26&_uhb=1
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heatrae-S...arden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item23253011b9
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heatrae-s...earing_Cooling_Air&hash=item1c2e4a2b26&_uhb=1
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heatrae-S...arden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item23253011b9
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Thanks for those links!
The second for the stat is the correct one and confirms my price of £40 pounds plus.
However the first does not seem to be the correct one and logic would indicate that its hardly going to include a £40 thermostat in a £45 element assembly.
As far as I am aware the elements are about the £70 mark although I cannot remember if that includes the stat as well.
The second for the stat is the correct one and confirms my price of £40 pounds plus.
However the first does not seem to be the correct one and logic would indicate that its hardly going to include a £40 thermostat in a £45 element assembly.
As far as I am aware the elements are about the £70 mark although I cannot remember if that includes the stat as well.
Not sure about the first one, it does say "Heatrae sadia Megaflo/Megaflow Immersion Heater & Stat" and "OEM REPLACEMENT FITTED WITH TSE THERMOSTAT", so it looks like it is both.
In case anybody needs the part numbers, I got these from Heatrae. (This is for a DD 210, "old style" heater with a white cap).
Stat - 95612026
Element - 95606920
In case anybody needs the part numbers, I got these from Heatrae. (This is for a DD 210, "old style" heater with a white cap).
Stat - 95612026
Element - 95606920
Thats a good point as the stat is certainly the TSE.
However, the picture seems to be a standard immersion element with a large hex nut.
The normal one for the Megaflow have a smaller diameter thread and use a special metal key ( supplied ) for unscrewing them.
Of course the picture may be wrong!
Perhaps they did fit the TSE in the larger old immersion housing ?
Or they may have got the price wrong ?
However, the picture seems to be a standard immersion element with a large hex nut.
The normal one for the Megaflow have a smaller diameter thread and use a special metal key ( supplied ) for unscrewing them.
Of course the picture may be wrong!
Perhaps they did fit the TSE in the larger old immersion housing ?
Or they may have got the price wrong ?
Pic looks the same as the one I'm using at the moment, and the part number's right. I read somewhere the type with the key was introduced later - earlier versions just had a different diameter. If I order one I'll post the results on here.
OK then, you must have a very old one.
In that case any standard immersion heater will fit although there is this question that they are not the manufacturer's original part!
It seems a cheap way to buy the TSE stat IF they are the same!
I should remind you that DIYers are not supposed to work on these cylinders if not qualified!
Tony
In that case any standard immersion heater will fit although there is this question that they are not the manufacturer's original part!
It seems a cheap way to buy the TSE stat IF they are the same!
I should remind you that DIYers are not supposed to work on these cylinders if not qualified!
Tony
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