Heatshrink

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Hello All,

I've had a good look through the forum and cant find the answer to my questions.
Can anyone tell me what size heatshrink I should buy to use on 2.5mm cable (for use with blue 32amp butt connectors)
And also is there a minimum distance sockets should be away from each other on a ring main??

Cheers

Parrotboy
 
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5-10mm diamenter would be best (unshrunk).

Why do you want to do this??





Sockets can be placed as close or as far as you like (from each other).

A ring can't serve an area larger than 100m/sq. BUT - If the cable has to travel along way to get to this 100m/sq area, or you have long runs due to the buildings infrastructure, you need to make sure 2.5mm is large enough.

Oh - and its not a ring main - its a ring final circuit ;)
 
Hi Lectrician,

On investigation I've found out that the house I've just bought has a spur off the ring main that goes to a double socket that spurs off to a fused 3amp switch to an outside light which in turn spurs off to a 13amp fused switch to the washing machine....... Phew!!
Although I'll probably never have all working at once, I'd like to do things safely and get them on the ring main (without making big holes in the walls)
The room above the socket on the ring main is the bathroom, this has a tiled floor (I don't want to take the tiles up to drop the extra run in for the ring main)
I intended using ratchet crimpers to extend the ring from behind the double socket. The wall has been dry lined giving extra depth to the socket housing also.
The dry lined wall will also allow me to pass some conduit through to the last spur (all in one short straight line) on this dodgy spuring extravaganza, thus making up the ring.
Or am I talkin rubbish???

Cheers

Parrotboy
 
Not sure I fully understand, but any joints, even crimped would be far better if they where in the back of a socket box - even if you have to put a deeper box in.
 
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Lectrician said:
Not sure I fully understand, but any joints, even crimped would be far better if they where in the back of a socket box - even if you have to put a deeper box in.

I agree, IMHO crimp joints with either heat shrink or SAT are fine if enclosed in a box, JB or CU. They always look like they have been done by amateurs even though they have'nt been
 
Hi, the circuit is like this at the moment
P09YNnZL.JPG

And I'd like to change it to this to put it on the ring
pjPOvM4kkd.JPG

Any advice would be welcome as to if this would be acceptable or not.

Thanks in advance

Parrotboy
 
If you felt like it, you could put a dual box in that top right corner, and take the ring away from the left-hand socket, and return to the right-hand socket, without needing crimped joints. If you wanted to, you could have additional sockets and FCUs along the loop which extends your ring. It's often handy to have plenty of sockets, and just above the worktop is a good place to put them, in a smart row.

In your diagram, the FCU for the washing machine looks as if it would be obstructed by the cabinet. It is better to have the switch (isolator) where it is readily seen, accessible, and obvious what it does (e.g. if you need to switch it off in an emergency, child got its arm stuck in the spinner, or water squirting over the electrics); you could put an FCU along the same level as the other sockets, and run a vertical cable in a chase to a flex outlet behind the washer. Or (my preferred) a 20A DP switch with neon feeding an unswitched socket, with the washing machine plugged in, and as it would have a 13A fused plug, it doesn't need (or want) a FCU above the worktop (one switch and one fuse per appliance is the ideal number).
 
Thanks for that JohnD, I was thinking along those lines myself (dual box).
that would give me a more secure place to store my either crimp or 30A connection block to complete the ring.

Cheers
 
parrotboy said:
Thanks for that JohnD, I was thinking along those lines myself (dual box).
that would give me a more secure place to store my either crimp or 30A connection block to complete the ring.

Cheers
If you replace the double socket with 2 singles in a dual box you don't need to join cables - that's the whole point.
 
ban-all-sheds said:
parrotboy said:
Thanks for that JohnD, I was thinking along those lines myself (dual box).
that would give me a more secure place to store my either crimp or 30A connection block to complete the ring.

Cheers
If you replace the double socket with 2 singles in a dual box you don't need to join cables - that's the whole point.

Hi, and thank you for that! I've got my dual box now, some conduit and the two single sockets.
Sometimes things are so obvious you can't see them. :oops:

Ta very much!!
 

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