Heldite, Oil tank

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My new oil tank has arrived. Titan R1225. With it are fittings, ptfe tape, heldite, etc. Any tips on installation?

I plan to take the pipe out of the tank, down to 25mm below DPC then clip pipe to house wall with 1:600 steady rise so I end up at DPC level before rising to boiler.

Do I need a drain at the lowest oil pipe point? Since usually that is underground I don't think I need one.

The oil filter/tank assembly could be horizontal or vertical. I think I will have the room underneath to mount the oil filter bowl vertical. Is that the best arrangement?

Heldite I take it is a jointing compound. How should it be used. No information came with it which I would have though is against H&S since it ought to at least say flammable or poisonous etc. (not that that would be helpful in knowing how to use it, but you see my point). I guess I'll ring them on Monday for some data (no web site!).
 
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I don't think you need a drain either at the lowest oil pipe point.
I would say you need a gate valve fitting close to the tank, then the filter which should be vertical, it might be advisable to fit another valve after the filter so when you dismantle the filter it can be isolated on both sides. The outlet from the filter will be 10 mm I assume and There are 10 mm 'in line' valves available.
I've never heard of Heldite, but then I don't fit tanks (only the one I purchased 8 years ago for myself). No doubt it will be a jointing compound which does the same job as the PTFE tape.( tip don't wrap PTFE tape anti-clockwise, tends to slacken.always clockwise). I would always choose copper olives rather than brass, copper is softer and don't over tighten them. better to under tighten and leak then you can tighten till leak stops.
You don't say if this is a new installation or a replacement tank, I was wondering if it is a single or a two pipe system.
I'm sure if I've missed anything 'Oilman' will point it out.
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
Heldite I think thats the Black sticky stuff used to make the connection to the tank. Notice my incredible use of terminology :D
 
Oilman will tell off you mentioning olives. Flared fitting only.

It is a single pipe, bottom outlet system. It could have been top outlet but seems like bottom outlet tanks are the rule and the pipe run was tidier.

There is another valve in the line but that is at the boiler. Will a 10mm line of oil drain if only one end is open? If not then the boiler valve would do. Note the oil pipe rises about 2m so that might make it more likely to drain I guess.
 
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I have to admit I can't isolate my filter as I don't have a second valve near it. I do have a valve at the boiler and I also have a rise of 2 metres. I just place a canister under the filter. But what I did fit was a 'one way' check valve so it cant drop back from the pump to the valve.I suppose it depends on the pipe size being used and the length of run.
I used to have difficulty getting oil to the pump which is at least 1 metre higher than the oil level, so I took a branch off by inserting a 'tee' plus a valve and some clear tubing. So I can see my oil level and by fitting a mini canister high enough I can achieve easy flashup with the main tank closed off and a cupful of oil.Mind you I've never had to use it for years.
I also ran the boiler for at least a week from a mini tank (modified plastic container) in the garage while I changed the main tank.
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
I calculate that the oil in the pipe is under a litre so no big deal if it does run back I guess. The oil should easily fit is a plastic ice-cram tub :) .

The one way valve sounds good but I'd wonder about the pressure drop across it. The boiler has a one valve too and is spec'ed for 2.5m maximum suction. I'm at about 1.8m perhaps so it would depend how much head the valve spring equates to. It that respect a isolation valve is a no brainer - no extra head.
 
Heldite is a shellac based compound, and is used on almost every garage forcourt in the country. You need time to use it, and there may be better ways of applying it, but paint some on the thread and let it dry for a while. Don't know how long, it depends on the weather, then put another coat on and screw the joint in. Then give it plenty of time to dry before you put oil in the tank.

Don't use PTFE tape on oil lines, it gets to the non return valve and causes problems, even if it doesnt cause problems in the pump.

The tank really ought to be well above ground, it's not good practice to put it on a ground level slab, it's a pain to deal with the joints to start with. But who cares? loads of people have loads of reasons why their corner cutting is acceptable. I just won't be giving out prizes.

Compression joints are not recommended for use with oil. I DON'T CARE THAT THE MANUFACTURERS SUPPLY THE THINGS, THEY ARE STILL NOT RECOMMENDED. When you have to do maintenance work, flared joints are miles better. But, stick your tank in at ground level, and use compression fittings just don't expect a prize.

There are some other useful bits to know, but first things first.
 
just bang it on the ground, the pump will pull 20 ft height, ..at a fair distance..put a non return valve in it, use the compression joints,
ptfe?...........use it, thats what its there for.

if it dont work , then im wrong.


ill get over it.
 
wilhelm said:
just bang it on the ground, the pump will pull 20 ft height, ..at a fair distance..put a non return valve in it, use the compression joints,

ptfe?...........use it, thats what its there for.


So there you have it.
 
The tank is going to be 100mm off the ground on a slab. 1. because it makes it easier to get at the filter and 2. because the sub base (old concrete slab) is uneven.

Actually I've realised there is even less possible oil leakage since most of the pipe is below the filter bowl. All that may drain if the non-return value in the boiler doesn't hold it is the vertical pipe run, about 100cc. So not worth worrying about.

I asked titan about heldite. They said to paint it over the top of the ptfe tape on the threaded fitting. I was thinking of putting a coat of heldite first, then ptfe, then more heldite as it seems to me if you want it on one ptfe/thread interface you want it on the other too.

Interesting comment about pfte tape. I guess ptfe is ok on the tank fitting since it is before the filter so any pfte bits will be caught by that. But no ptfe after the filter.
 
if you go onto oftec site, there are new recommendations for tank bases.
if you want to do it up to spec.
 
I've bought the book - OFTEC book 3. Keen or what :) .

The base is just bigger than the tank. But then the tank is surround on 3 sides by walls. >60mm clearance for tank bulging of course (OFTEC figure). Floor (on which 100mm base stands) is old concrete - not smooth but fire proof so meets OFTEC requirement of 300mm (at open end) or to fire proof wall (other 3 sides).
 

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