Help a novice with a bathroom leak!

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by trueblue1878, 30 Nov 2010.

  1. trueblue1878

    trueblue1878

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    Hi guys.. so one of the plastic taps on my bathroom sink ruptured where the threads are that screw into the pipe (I don't know any plumbing lingo so im sorry for for my bad explanation).

    The threads are plastic and I have no idea how it ruptured but I assumed that it just needed tightening back into the nut at first but doing that made the tap threaded part completely snap leaving a plastic ring inside the nut that I can't get out.. I can't get to it to dig it out unless I completely disconnect the sink unit so thats out of the question for now.

    I am just wondering if there is a device out there that I can use to puncture the supply pipe to that tap and cut off the taps water flow as a temporary solution so I can atleast turn water back on to the toilet and shower to bathe?

    If there isn't such a device then can anyone recommend another easy temporary solution?

    I will fix it properly next week but for now I just need to get the water back on.

    Many thanks!
     
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  3. echoes

    echoes

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    If your water is off, cut the pipe about 12" below the tap and fit one of these valves: (I am assuming the pipe runs vertically (more or less) to the underside of the tap).

    [​IMG]

    to the end of the pipe.

    Make sure the valve is closed and you can then turn your water back on.

    When you get a new tap, you will be able to reconnect it without turning the water off again, and be able to isolate the basin tap easily if needed.
     
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  4. trueblue1878

    trueblue1878

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    Ok thanks matey.. Is that called a isolating shut off valve?
    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/15mm-Compress...DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ&hash=item4154af2d06

    I assume the solder is already inside the nut on these things?

    I have a hacksaw, blow torch and im assuming thats all I will need? and a bit of wire wool or something to clean the pipe?

    EDIT
    Oh I wonder if its worth getting a flexi pipe and fit it to the top of the pipe after cutting the old bit off and then just capping it?

    Cheers!
     
  5. echoes

    echoes

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    It's an isolating valve. No solder needed - it's a compression fitting.

    One of these:

    [​IMG]

    is far better and quicker than a hacksaw. Bit of wire wool never a bad thing with any sort of fitting - make sure the end of the pipe is smooth and clean.

    Hand tighten the nut, and then 1/4 - 1/2 turn with a spanner should do it. Beware the cheap ones can leak like a sieve.
     
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  6. hibeealex

    hibeealex

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    No you dont need solder for these valves just two spanners to tighten the nuts, there are olives inside them (copper or brass rings) cut the pipe so you have a gap of about 25mm then put one nut onto a cut end then an olive and tighten the nut, then repeat at other end, the small slot in the valve is the bit that turns it on @off in the picture its shown as open turn it 90 Deg to turn it off
     
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  7. echoes

    echoes

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    When I'm feeling lazy, or it won't be seen. I use:

    Tap -> Flexible tap connector -> short length of pipe -> isolating valve ->supply pipe

    I avoid the combined flexi-connectors and valves since I find it easier to (dis)connect the bottom of the flexible-connector rather than the tap end.
     
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  8. BingoBongo

    BingoBongo

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    just use a filling loop :D
     
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  9. echoes

    echoes

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    Noted!
     
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  11. Whitespirit66

    Whitespirit66

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    ;)
     
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  12. Whitespirit66

    Whitespirit66

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    And another!



    The bit with the olive and compression fitting tightening apply.
    I gnore the bit with the PTFE tape.
     
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  13. trueblue1878

    trueblue1878

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    Thanks guys :) I forgot I had a pipe cutter olive thingie in the shed lol. Just need the valve and I will be sorted.. I didn't know the nuts were all pressure seal now though.. Hope they don't go loose after some years wear!

    Cheers!!
     
  14. dennyboy

    dennyboy

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    just a word of warning - from experience I've always found the thread on the plastic taps a little longer than on normal taps, so unless you have a bit of play of the copper leading upto it a flexi pipe might be your best bet esp if a portion of the plastic is still stuck inside the tap connector
     
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  15. trueblue1878

    trueblue1878

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    Cheers everyone.. Just to re-cap before I attempt this..

    I don't need to use PTFE tape and I don't need to heat the olives to seal them..? Its all just needs tightening to seal properly?

    Many thanks!
     
  16. trueblue1878

    trueblue1878

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    Hi again guys.. I ran into a problem while doing this.

    Basically the pipe cutter I used didn't cut deep enough into the pipe and i'm left with a pipe with 2 rings cut into it about 1 inch apart. I would try using a hacksaw to finish the job but the pipe is about 1.5 inches away from the wall so unless I make tiny saw strokes which would take all day thats not gunna work.

    I am thinking should I buy another cutter?? Or are these old copper pipes made thicker than modern ones and therefore can't be cut by the cutter I have?
    Or maybe the cutter I have is rubbish.. I have heard AM-Tech tools are crap but I thought it would do the job.

    Its an auto cutter and not the manual one where you tighten on each turn.

    I have thought about getting a dremel and trying that but £40+ seems like a lot just for one job.


    Any ideas guys? if you suggest another cutter then please PM me a link to a good one maybe on amazon or ebay or something.

    This one looks good.. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000X2CSWS
    or is this better http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0001P0F5Y

    Cheers
     
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