Help an idiot plumb his toilet.

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I've just tiled the downstairs toilet and removed the toilet before I did. Obviously the toilet now sits about 10mm higher than before and because of that the inlet and overflow wont quite fit back on. The waste was ok by the way.

I've pasted pictures in below of how things look now

30l2tn8.jpg
25sabeo.jpg


I'm guessing for the overflow it's easier just to cut some new pipe rather than mess around trying to extend it. My problem is what to do with the inlet pipe.

I've been given some flexi hose type connector but its around 10 inches long and I'm thinking that might be abit overkill just to bridge a 10mm gap ?

Lastly I think i need to seal the basin to the tiles with some kind of sealant ? Would a bead of ordinary bathroom sealant be ok for this ?

Thanks for any help

Bulla
 
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personally i would of outed the overflow for an internal overflow.
and the inlet i would cut the pipe back and fit a new section of copper pipe.
 
yeah any type of sanitary or bathroom sealant should do the trick, just make sure the surfaces you are applying the sealant to are clean and dry.

Personally i would of also cut the pipe back and just fit some new,
but easier for you may be to cut the remaining pipe close to the tee, leaving enough room for the flex connector, and use that.
 
Cut the supply pipe off a couple of inches above the tee joint. Make sure that your cut is on a section of the pipe that is not deformed or curved by the bend in it, as you won't get a good seal. Use a hacksaw, then file off the sharp edges. Connect the end of the flexible connector which has an olive inside (small copper ring) to the pipe end, and connect the other end to the connection under the toilet. Make sure there is a fibre/rubber washer in this end.

Get some silicone sealant for the basin/tile joint.
 
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...and shut off the water elsewhere before cutting the pipe below that isolation valve?
 
Also if you remove that isolator, you lose the ability to shut off the water quickly in the event of a leak etc when you reconnect....
 
Was the isolator originally attached direct to the base of the cistern valve?

If you're going to attach it again, might be good policy to use a fresh washer.
 
As been said, buy a compression or push fit flexy pipe with a built in isolator. Take the bit you cut off down to the plumbing shop and ask for a connector with this end.

Turn the water off, screw one end to the bottom of the toilet, nip it up not too tight, these rubber washers seal with very little pressure. mark the pipe and cut it and join it on, tuen water on, check for leaks... job done.
 
buy a compression or push fit flexy pipe with a built in isolator. Take the bit you cut off down to the plumbing shop and ask for a connector with this end.

Think you're confusing him here.
If he buys the flexi why would he then need anything else?
 
buy a compression or push fit flexy pipe with a built in isolator. Take the bit you cut off down to the plumbing shop and ask for a connector with this end.

Think you're confusing him here.
If he buys the flexi why would he then need anything else?

he wont.

hasnt it been stated that the flexy would be too long to go inbetween the iso valve and the toliet, hence the iso valve will need to cut off (with a bit of pipe) then someone mentioned he wont beable to isolate the toliet.

i was just pointing out that you can get a flexy with a bulit in iso valve.

?
 
just do it properly in the first place.
bl**dy flexi's all over the place.

You know you love 'em. Especially those 'special' ones you come across that are all twisted up to fek by some bodger.

I would say given the OP's lack of experience though he has a greater chance of getting his toilet working again using a flexi.
 
Yes, flexis and plastic pipe are slowly kiiling the 'black arts' of plumbing. :(

I'm afraid that's the way of the world now: bang it in PDQ, grab the readies, and get on to the next job.
 

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