Help finding drain cock to repressurise worcester 28i junior

[clf-gas]

Attach a hose. Cover the control panel with plastic bag and put a towel over that to stop any water getting on electrics.



I fortell a pening disaster

 

[Michael D 77]

do you keep draining until the water stops or just until it reaches 0?

 

[clf-gas]

untill the water stops, you did issolate cold feed, flow and return didn't you?.

 

[Michael D 77]

yeah i did.

 

[clf-gas]

carry on then

 

[Michael D 77]

ok all the water is out and have pumped up the other bit. How do i bleed the HE?

 

[alan m 1974]

gasguru,,how can it wreck his boiler,so when you go to change a auto air vent or heat exchanger,you dont just open the prv,and let it go,id rather do that than touch some drain offs,if the drain off is a few years old then its 70/30 against it opening.I have been in this game long enough to know what is what,and i know you and a handful of others think your the yoda's of this site,but will you be retired by 40 or are you still going now past that ,im doing this job flat out now and will do for another 10 years and then finished for good

 

[clf-gas]

ok all the water is out and have pumped up the other bit. How do i bleed the HE?

Different boiler. have you got 1.2 / 1.5 bar with all issolations open.

If so try hot tap and then try heating, you may need to go round and bleed any rads.

 

[Michael D 77]

tried hot water and no joy. same as before.

 

[Gasguru]

Tell us what the original problem was, apart from letting the air out of the expansion vessel what was wrong with the boiler?

gasguru,,how can it wreck his boiler,so when you go to change a auto air vent or heat exchanger,you dont just open the prv,and let it go,id rather do that than touch some drain offs,if the drain off is a few years old then its 70/30 against it opening.I have been in this game long enough to know what is what,and i know you and a handful of others think your the yoda's of this site,but will you be retired by 40 or are you still going now past that ,im doing this job flat out now and will do for another 10 years and then finished for good

Can't you take a hint - get off the forum.

The OP knows little about the boiler - you are proposing they use a safety device to drain down the boiler rather than the purpose designed drain-off.

With experience it is a simple matter to replace or clean out the safety as many in the trade do however it's very easy to disturb the original pressure rating of the valve therefore having a detrimental effect on safety. It is not good or safe advice to allow a novice to do the same.


9 times out of 10 I will drain from a rad valve connection, if I can clean or easily replace the PRV I may use that, I may consider boiler drain-offs and if they likely to create a call-back (from not sealing after use) I will replace the drain-off (at nominal extra cost).

Many PRV's are very inaccessible and if they fail to seal it could result in significant extra repair time...no doubt you would just rip off your customers for the extra. If this boiler had turned out to be a Greenstar Junior and the OP had used the PRV to drain down how much extra agro would he have if it failed to re-seal? The Greenstar is carp for maintainance. The bottom end has to come off. It is irresponsible telling the OP half the story.

I may not be retired by 40 but at least I will have a clear conscience, you are becoming a little tiresome, despite the fact most of the regulars regard you as a cowboy and your postings vindicate our belief you continue to persist in this diatribe against us.

 

[JB Gas]

I only use the prv to drain down when I am replacing the boiler.

 

[Michael D 77]

The original problem we had was a massive leak from an under floor pipe to our kitchen radiator. (the boiler is in the kitchen). This was fixed and we had heat and hot water for a day then nothing. We had a phoenix engineer out who replaced an air pressure switch? round white thing! this was melted which the engineer had not seen before. When he replaced this it worked for half an hour after he left then went again but we were able to get hot water alone and the heat worked for maybe 20 mins every 2-3 hours. I told the engineer at the time that i had removed the air but he said that had nothing to do with it and touched nothing but the air pressure switch. The house and the boiler is only 3 years old. Surely we should not be having this trouble?

 

[Gasguru]

I can't see how the air pressure switch could melt unless several safety devices were bypassed to enable the boiler to dry fire without the fan running.

The only faults I've seen on these boilers are leaks on the top pump union, leaks on the braided hose connection at the back and pcbs.