HELP identifying kitchen appliances please!

[Dave123456789]

Hi all

I am totally clueless when it comes to this stuff so really really appreciate your help here!

I am having a new kitchen done (back of the house, after you walk through passage/landing)

Currently i have a free standing all in 1 gas cooker/oven/grill. it has a normal plug - i think this is for the oven and grill part as the hob works on gas pipe?????

i also have a separate mircowave on the worktop. standard plug.

but i wish to get a tall larder style unit which will encompass my new oven/grill and microwave like at this link:
http://sheratonblog.omegaplc.co.uk/painted-timber-shaker/

and have my HOB integrated into the worktop nearby - you know where the cut into the worktop.

my understanding was that i would continue to have my gas pipe feed the back of my hob appliance i will buy.

and my microwave and oven/grill can be placed into the larder until and use my normal plug socket

but now a colleague has said i need to have the thicker wire run from my fuse box. 6mm?

My "fuse box" is at the front of the house!! and iv had the landing recently floored and ceiling painted so i really cant interrupt this now!

the only possible option is i have another electrical unit in the upstairs landing for electric shower. except we dont use that shower. and i think that used the thicker cable. can i run this down into the kitchen - it would just come down the ceiling and into the kitchen floor - which is not done yet.......and power up what i need to power up??


on currys website: within the filter of "installation" - you can choose 13amp plug supplied....does this mean i can plug and play as such for the oven? therefore not need to run anything extra? are these ovens not that good however?

it then has another filter option of "13 amp plug required" - what does this mean?? why wouldn't they just give you the plug for the appliance? like the filter above....

do microwaves require certain power? or is it just the oven / grill??

finally you have a filter choice "hard wiring required" mean? is that running the new thick 6mm cable?

where does does the 6mm cable even plug into? from fuse box to where? back of appliance? (oven)

sorry for being so dumb on this matter!

please see my pictures for pic of my fuse box and the shower unit upstairs - pic 2 and 3. i never touch this as electric shower is pretty lame compared to normal tap shower method!

FUSE BOX

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• Dave123456789
• 19 Feb 2015
• 1

MY UPSTAIRS LANDING SHOWER UNIT I THINK

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• Dave123456789
• 19 Feb 2015
• 1

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• Dave123456789
• 19 Feb 2015
• 1

 

[ericmark]

I am not really sure why you need an uprated supply so I will try to give some pointers.

1) In the main hobs use more than 13A there are specials which do not and of course gas so in the main if you want to have an electric hob you will have an isolator and cooker connection unit and a dedicated supply with not plugs of sockets.

2) Ovens come both as 13A and 16A with a 13A type you could simply plug in but normally one would have a dedicated supply. With 16A no option needs a dedicated supply.

3) Cables don't have to be inside the house SWA cables can be run around the outside so as not to upset floors etc.

4) Yes the RCD protected shower supply can likely be used for kitchen appliances.

5) The old Wilex consumer unit will have no RCD protection built in this may cause problems if any cables or sockets are to be moved or installed.

6) Although a new consumer unit is likely the best option it's not the only option I still use a Wylex consumer unit like yours and have 100% RCD protection in the house.

So now it's down to planning. There are as I say methods which are not always considered. Having a sub-consumer unit in the kitchen for example fed from the original with SWA around the outside of the house. But it is all down to planning and it is hard to plan remote so really you need some one on site to advise not a forum.

 

[Dave123456789]

hi eric -

1) can you please explain what you mean by uprated supply?
2) will my new hob AND oven need a feed to fuse box then? i.e. TWO of these thicker wires going to fuse board?
i thought hob just works through my gas pipe
3) outside the house is hard i live in terraced housing.
4) what is wilex?

thanks for your help

These 3 are "13amp SUPPLIED". surely plug and play then?
http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/built-...v00307493/xx_xx_xx_xx_7-9-10-11-criteria.html

otherwise i may have to rip up landing flooring and run this thick wire to get a better appliance....

 

[ericmark]

0.99 kWh first two and 3 kWh last one can all be supplied from a 13A outlet.

Wilex it the make of the consumer unit you show.

If hob is gas then only a small supply is required.

So it would seem you will not need to get any new feeds.

I say seems as 3kW is on the limit. With a kitchen ring I would not worry. But if whole house on one ring I would.

With first two of your selection then no problem at all they can just be plugged in. Even with the third it is unlikely to cause a problem and if it does then the trip would go so just a pain having to reset it there would be no harm.

 

[Dave123456789]

the kitchen ring is not on its own. part of house.

and i think given that 100+ ovens at currys are under the filter "hardwiring"

http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/built-...v00307492/xx_xx_xx_xx_7-9-10-11-criteria.html

it seems this is the standard ovens these days and therefore i need to investigate a way to run a new thick style wire to fuse box.....


what do you think?

 

[EFLImpudence]

i need to investigate a way to run a new thick style wire to fuse box.....
what do you think?

Judging by the age of your fuse box, I would think you already have one.

 

[securespark]

Help identifying kitchen appliances:

These are toasters: http://www.houzz.com/photos/toasters

These are kettles: http://www.houzz.com/photos/kettles

These are dishwashers: http://www.houzz.com/photos/products/dishwasher

Sorry, couldn't resist.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

My "fuse box" is at the front of the house!! and iv had the landing recently floored and ceiling painted so i really cant interrupt this now!

You're having a new kitchen with new electrical appliances.

You can't see any cables clipped to the walls, so you must have known that they had to be in the walls and/or under the floor and/or above the ceiling.

 

[Dave123456789]

Yes but I didn't know new ovens need a different wire

I thought u just plug and use like my existing one on this 13amp socket

Now I know you need to run this 10mm or 6mm cable so just asking for so,ex guidance as my celing and floor I don't really want to touch

Do u think its ok to put behind coving?
This is an option for me - I don't mind changing that and stuffing wire behind ....

 

[Taylortwocities]

IF you need a thicker cable all the way to the fusebox, this will be a new circuit.
This type of work is notifiable and (with respect) you do not appear to have the skills to do this. Your best solution will be to have a registered electrician to do this work, if it is necessary.

If teh wires for the new circuit will be chased into the walls (they probably will be at some point) then the circuit must be RCD protected. Your main fuseboard does not have any RCD protection, but your shower consumer unit has, and there is a spare way on that, so this MAY BE a way round.

BUT

someone (AN ELECTRICIAN) would need to look at the additional loads that you require and see the best way to do this.

 

[Dave123456789]

Hi yes I am arranging for a pro to come see this all

ERIC - you said

"The old Wilex consumer unit will have no RCD protection built in this may cause problems if any cables or sockets are to be moved or installed."

6) Although a new consumer unit is likely the best option it's not the only option I still use a Wylex consumer unit like yours and have 100% RCD protection in the house.

so how did u get RCD protection in there if we have same unit??

So now it's down to planning. There are as I say methods which


i have decided i dont need the whole room on a new ring

just run a wire from fuse box (possible new one to be installed) to a 'spur' to the actual oven/grill appliance. and that can power it up.

fridge, microwave, dishwasher, gas hob but electric plug for spark, and laundry can all be powered by normal 13amp plug sockets arleady in house on existing ring...............

 

[ericmark]

You can have a RCD before, combined with, or after the MCB and you could in theroy fit a RCD next to existing consumer unit and so move the supply to a RCD protected circuit.

However in practice this will likely cost more than fitting a new consumer unit. Whole new consumer unit likely costs £50 (not including fitting) and a RCD in a box £25 so two RCD's and same cost in parts as swapping whole consumer unit.

There is no rule saying you must upgrade existing circuits but you must have any additions to circuits with RCD protection. One method for under 13A is the RCD FCU about £15 each and the existing sockets could be replaced for RCD FCU but that means you need access to existing so in essence it's like running extension leads to every appliance again theroy OK but in practice not really an option.

I had this problem with my mothers kitchen and the compromise was a mini-consumer unit for just the kitchen fed with SWA cable around the outside of the house.

If the existing wiring is suspect and you must have a kitchen refurbish as in my mothers case losing a leg and now in wheel chair the kitchen had to be refurbished it was not just to make the house look nice it was a real must so it did not matter having a large lump on the wall with the RCBO's inside it was necessary as simple as that.

But had the kitchen been wanted for vanity reasons then clearly house re-wire would have to come first.

Had my father's house been wired in PVC with no faults it would have been simple but it was not and the old rubber cables were a problem I knew the house could not be put on total RCD protection.

Father has now passed away so now we will need to re-wire. He refused to live in a building site as he called it and correctly stated it would last his life time we could re-wire it after his death.

So yes there are ways around the problems be my father paid more as a result of not re-wiring whole house and this is the big point there are other ways but in the main they will cost more than the standard methods.