Help - New Rads Wont Heat - Kids Not Happy‍♂️

[transam]

I take it that each rad has its own dedicated 10 mm flow and return

Not 10 mm feeding 2 rads ???

I.e not one 10 mm flow and return feeding 2 rads ????

 

[ellal]

Sometimes these radiators are directional. It may be the the flow & return pips are the wrong way round

We had a designer one fitted a short while ago and it didn't work.
It had a fault but the replacement takes an age to heat up, getting warm up one side, then across the top and finally down the other side.
Despite it having inlet/outlet labelled at the bottom, could it be upside down and labelled wrong?
TBH not confident enough to do the light trick!

 

[Deleted member 294929]

We had a designer one fitted a short while ago and it didn't work.
It had a fault but the replacement takes an age to heat up, getting warm up one side, then across the top and finally down the other side.
Despite it having inlet/outlet labelled at the bottom, could it be upside down and labelled wrong?
TBH not confident enough to do the light trick!

Some of these tall designer rads need flushing through.

I would turn the radiators that are getting hot off. Then hopefully the said rad will start getting hotter.

Use a mallet or the rubber butt of an hammer and tap the cross sections where horizontal meets vertical.

I believe these little port ways get blocked with swarf not cleared in manufacturing. Then ballance the radiators back on once said radiator is hot.

There's plenty of advice on balancing heating systems on here.

 

[Deleted member 294929]

I'm 100% certain that's the issue. Top marks to Bod. Correct diagnosis.

I'd also like to thank my family friends and most importantly the customers that got me here.

 

[Justin Passing]

I'd also like to thank my family friends and most importantly the customers that got me here.

Don't forget the Academy....

 

[Deleted member 294929]

Don't forget the Academy....

how can I forget the support the Academy have given me....

 

[RandomGrinch]

I'm 100% certain that's the issue. Top marks to Bod. Correct diagnosis.

I wasn't going to give 'top marks' - IIRC, there wasn't any differentiation between flow and return on the rad, but there definitely was a 'top' and 'bottom'!

A solid B+

 

[Dave Smig]

I take it that each rad has its own dedicated 10 mm flow and return

Not 10 mm feeding 2 rads ???

I.e not one 10 mm flow and return feeding 2 rads ????

I'm not too sure, thanks for your suggestions. I'm going the things suggested one by one. I can't thank everyone enough for their help and time. Cheers

 

[HERTS P&D]

When I knocked through my dining room kitchen, we bought a tall tower rad, which I hung myself to save the plumber time, after he ran the pipes and connected them, he fired up the system and we found only the bottom of the rad was hot. He checked a few markings on the rad and told me I was a c**t, the rad was upside down,

Andy

 

[Dave Smig]

When I knocked through my dining room kitchen, we bought a tall tower rad, which I hung myself to save the plumber time, after he ran the pipes and connected them, he fired up the system and we found only the bottom of the rad was hot. He checked a few markings on the rad and told me I was a c**t, the rad was upside down, there are baffles at the bottom of the rad to deflect the inward flow upwards.
I've no idea what the markings are but that would be my first line of enquiry.

Thank you for this, you've all been so helpful. I'll let you all know

 

[Dave Smig]

I have one of those, and can confirm it has got baffles on the bottom.
It could very well be upside down!

A relatively straight forward check - (with all valves closed) undo and remove the bleed valve and blank plug on top of the rad and shine a light through - if you can see through to the other side, it is the right way up. If you can see something like an angled penny washer inside, then it is upside down!

Thank you for this, I will check this next

 

[Dave Smig]

Thank you for this, I will check this next

Hi all, I have carried out the check at the head of the radiators and you can see clearly all of the way through. So at the top it is clear side to side with no angled penny type feature inside. I'll keep going through the other suggestions thanks

 

[Dave Smig]

I'd also like to thank my family friends and most importantly the customers that got me here.

Hi all, I have carried out the check at the head of the radiators and you can see clearly all of the way through. So at the top it is clear side to side with no angled penny type feature inside. It looks like it is the correct way up. I'll keep going through the other suggestions thanks

 

[sxturbo]

Most likely there isn't sufficient flow to the rads cos of the 10mm pipe,

the connectors of white flexible pipe are very restrictive, by the time you put the insert in the pipe and the restriction caused by the connection pieces especially on 10mm pipe you'll find that there is quite a chance this has been reduced to to around 6mm ish.

It's just never going to work,

Did you pay a pro to do it?

 

[Dave Smig]

Most likely there isn't sufficient flow to the rads cos of the 10mm pipe,

the connectors of white flexible pipe are very restrictive, by the time you put the insert in the pipe and the restriction caused by the connection pieces especially on 10mm pipe you'll find that there is quite a chance this has been reduced to to around 6mm ish.

It's just never going to work,

Did you pay a pro to do it?

It was the builder who did a great job of building the extension, very good indeed but I'm guessing not a heating expert. I've questioned the 15mm to 10mm with him and he just says he did all if his snd recent jobs like that and it all works fine. He's spoken with a colleague who is a professional and they have come to the conclusion it is the pump on my Worcester boiler not being strong enough and needing changing.... nightmare! Thanks for message