Help with skirting sitting proud of door lining ?

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So I've fitted a new door lining as old one had had it and it's also been re boarded ad plastered but it's leaving me with very little spare for the skirting lol this picture will help
 

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Easiest thing to do now would be to chamfer the skirting at the end to sit flush with the door. If you make it a gradual chamfer you'll never see it once it's painted.
 
So basically sand the back of the skirting and give it a gradual chamfer ? Belt sander out then I think lol thankyou
 
Yes (though I have seen it done on the front :) ), you'll probably want to think about securing it properly on that end to pull it in just the right amount. Any minor gap behind can be caulked.
 
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It's ogee skirt so I'll have to do the back cheers I'll let u know how I get on
 
It's ogee skirt so I'll have to do the back cheers I'll let u know how I get on
The amount of chamfer needed at the back to bring the face flush would have the effect of tappering the top of the skirting reducing its height or have I missread it?
I usually make plinth blocks as in post above.
 
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The amount of chamfer needed at the back to bring the face flush would have the effect of tappering the top of the skirting reducing its height or have I missread it?
I usually make plinth blocks as in post above.

Not sure about reading it wrong but perhaps interpreting it wrong. Basically taking thickness out of the piece on the back in a graduated way will allow it to sit back further and remove or at least reduce the amount of protrusion.
 
2D7F21B6-BC67-4531-8D36-E709D81F5D6D.jpeg In order to get the face flush measurment 1 would have to be removed from the back, because the top of skirting is narrower than that measurment distance 2 would be reduced?
 
Yes, it's really not ideal, it's a bodge but aside from items foxhole posted that's about all that can be done aside from not over plastering but that's been done now.
 
Not sure about reading it wrong but perhaps interpreting it wrong. Basically taking thickness out of the piece on the back in a graduated way will allow it to sit back further and remove or at least reduce the amount of protrusion.
No amount of tapering at the back would allow it to sit back as the rest will still be the same thickness .
 
The amount of chamfer needed at the back to bring the face flush would have the effect of tappering the top of the skirting reducing its height or have I missread it?
Seems that way to me, and that will look dumb. He basically has no choice but to sand the front of the skirting so that it meets flush with the frame, allowing the door to swing normally. Or use a wedge-shaped plinth block attached to the wall, for the skirting to butt up against.
 
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I'd say chamfer the front, had the same problem in my house. You do notice it even after painting, but at least it's neat and tidy.

Don't do what one person did for me in another room and bash it with a chisel till it fits.
 
cant you take the door casing out and pack it off the wall 10mm? will result in a door being 10mm anrrower than it would have been
 

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