HELP: Worcester 280RSF, realistic efficiency ???

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Hi,
planning on replacing my WB 280rsf which is 17 years old with a Vaillant 831.

But looking on sebuk charts the 280 should be about 71% eff and the 831 about 88%.

My question is. Is it really worth me changing it just to save fuel costs? going on there predicted fuel savings, it would take 15 years to get back the cost.

Or will my boiler be running at much less than 71% due to it's age and lack of regular servicing, (i've no proof of any servicing)


thanks,
Kev.
 
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If your current boiler is still working fine, get it serviced, that's all it needs. You won't recoup the cost of the new one in fuel savings, and of course you're forgetting that the money you spend is effectively losing interest in the bank, as it's not there any more. So, if you spend say £1500 getting the swap done, you also need to factor into your payback time the £65 or so a year that cash is no longer earning by being in a high-interest bank account (current best rate is 4.5% in an ISA) and also the annual servicing costs (probably around another £60-£70 a year), as you'll need to get it serviced annually in the warranty period, which could be five years

If it ain't broke, don't change it
 
Yes thats what I was thinking.

It just worried me when I bought this house (big old sandstone lodge) In January. In 2 months it used nearly £300 in gas, also needed a fan replacing and it trips every now and then.
So i thought for next winter i'll replace it.

But i was a bit shocked at how little difference Sebuk estimate the savings to be. Like £100 or so a year.

Could it be that even after the service it will still be using lots of gas? say if the H/E's are irreversably blocked ??

I don't want to spend money on getting the system flushed and serviced to then still have to pay out come the winter for a new boiler.

Thanks again,
Kev
 
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I've got a 280RSF of the same vintage. It's a very reliable boiler IMHO, and most parts are still remarkably easy to get hold of. With the help of forum members and the excellent manufacturer's instructions (downloadable from WB), I've been able to fix all faults myself, though of course, there are areas which should only be looked at by a RGI.

As you imply, the condition of yours is unknown. Does it keep its pressure OK, or do you have to re-pressurise it now and again? Do you have to bleed the rads? If you do, you have a leak which needs to be sorted a.s.a.p. before corrosion sets in. And there should be inhibitor in the primary circuit.

Having the boiler serviced, the whole system flushed and an inhibitor added could be money well spent.

Tripping of the overheat cutout is caused by the primary circuit getting too hot, and the helpful people here told me that this is often because of sludge, or a faulty pump, or rarely, the water-water heat exchanger being scaled up. Replacing the latter seems to have stopped the tripping in mine, but only time will tell if it's cured for good.

I certainly intend to keep mine until parts are no longer available, or it becomes hopelessly unreliable.

I too am sceptical about the current obsession for replacing boilers that work perfectly, merely because they're a bit less efficient than the latest models.
 
I too am sceptical about the current obsession for replacing boilers that work perfectly, merely because they're a bit less efficient than the latest models.

Know ye of such an obsession? I've yet to replace a boiler other than those virtually condemned, and that's in good times. I'd be more surprised to get one in the current climate.
 
Only anecdotally... two of my colleagues at work and two neighbours have had boilers changed in the last year or two because they were under the impression the replacement ones would be substantially "greener". We do have an unusually high concentration of eco-freaks here in Oxford though :rolleyes:
 
well thats what i'm planning on doing, but mainly, as i live in a huge old sandstone lodge, and have no control, except for temp & clock on boiler,
Plus i've had a problems with it tripping which means you wake up freeeeezing, plus it takes a good 10 secs for pilot to light. oh and i've had the fan go too and a sensor. all since january. oh, also had a pump. So maybe it's all on it's way out ...

But i wold rather have it working fine then spend £1600 on a new one, but i don't want to regret paying a couple of hundred to get it serviced and flushed, then still change it come winter problems.

Kev
 
I don't want to spend money on getting the system flushed and serviced to then still have to pay out come the winter for a new boiler.
But you're presumably also asking whether it makes financial sense to retain/refurbish a 17-year-old combi (which obviously has some fault), or whether a new one would be a better bet. This is harder to answer!
 

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