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Hive and Central Heating Wiring

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by Tim Si, 31 Jul 2019.

  1. Tim Si

    Tim Si

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    Good Evening,

    Just trying to fix my homes control system for for heating and hot water, with the Hive dual channel receiver, thermostat and hub.

    The current setup is as follows, also attached is the wiring diagram which I have traced, suspect there is a wiring problem so need help to solve same.

    - Ideal Classic HE15 Boiler, on ground floor in kitchen
    - Hive Dual Channel Programmer/ Receiver, next to boiler
    - Hive Wireless Room Thermostat, on ground floor in lounge
    - Hot water cylinder is in the airing cupboard at first floor level
    - Honeywell Wired Cylinder Thermostat, on HW cylinder
    - Heating/ Honeywell 2 Port Valve, next to HW cylinder at first floor level
    - Hot Water/ Honeywell 2 Port Valve, next to HW cylinder at first floor level
    - Grundfoss Pump, next to HW cylinder at first floor level
    - Wiring junction box is next to HW cylinder at first floor level
    - Cold water tank is in the loft

    The Hive was installed about 6 months ago, before that there was a normal wickes controller/ time switch.

    The problem that I have is that sometimes I cannot get hot water without turning the radiators (heating) on, it seems that the boiler will only heat water when the heating is on.

    During the winter months no one really noticed this as the heating had to be on due to the cold weather.

    Any help appreciated!

    Thanks, Tim

    Hive Wiring - Upload_Page.jpg
     
    Last edited: 31 Jul 2019
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  3. mrStat

    mrStat

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    You probably need a new 2 port for your hot water. As long as the wiring diagram is accurate of course ;)

    On the side of the Honeywell valves is a lever, resistance on the lever = closed, loose = open ... When you have hot water on, turn cylinder stat down, valve should close. Turn cylinder stat up, valve will open.... When almost fully open it makes a micro switch (you will hear the click) and the boiler should fire up - if it doesn’t click, but has started to open, you could try and take the head off and check the valve pin is loose. Sometimes the valves get a bit sticky and the valve actuator has not got enough uuumph to open all the way and make the micro switch - most of the time, new motor/actuator.
     
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  4. Tim Si

    Tim Si

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    Appreciated with thanks, I will check it in the morning and revert
     
  5. ianmcd

    ianmcd

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    Beware that there will be a permanent live in there so dont go poking around with anything even with the programmer selected to off
     
  6. Mike2007

    Mike2007

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    Hive/ Nest etc is using a sledgehammer to break an egg!
    It's like using a satnav to plan a dog walk.
    But just my opinion
     
  7. ericmark

    ericmark

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    I would have agreed, until I had problems finding a way to correct the control mess in my house, the standard wired thermostat is great, but you need to get those wires installed, the wireless thermostat needs either two way coms, or some other method to ensure it fails safe, had it in mothers house, thermostat stuck on, room at 28°C.

    Hive, Nest, EvoHome, Tado all have two way coms, so the base knows when contact lost, so fails safe.

    Hive today has an advantage that the TRV that work with it, actually tell the thermostat to run boiler, Nest uses Energenie TRV heads which follow Nest but don't actually tell boiler to run, but Nest also has OpenTherm Hive does not, and Nest two channel is still volt free, Hive is not, and Nest can use hard wired thermostat to heat link in fact that means also the thermostat is powered from mains (Not Nest e).

    So I used Nest as I had just two wires from Hall to utility room, and utility room to flat below house where the boiler, pump, and valves were located, so with Nest those two wires allow power to thermostat and control of heating including DHW. I did not find an alternative method other than Nest, it also linked to the 4 Energenie TRV heads I already have, and allows remote control, but that was just an added bonus.

    I have fitted cheaper TRV heads upstairs, and flat is very basic, but I have to admit without Nest I would have needed to either remove floor boarding or ceiling to run new wires, so it removed the need to use the sledge hammer.

    As to remote operation have to admit rarely used, just a simple timed schedule controls the heating most of the time. Now do use a plug in device to switch and monitor the air con, and yesterday I switched on air con from 15 miles away, but not central heating. I am lucky the portable AC returns to last setting when plugged in, so I just control on/off, and the TRV heads report temperature in the room.
     
  8. Tim Si

    Tim Si

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    Finally got round to working on it, followed mrStat advise and seems to have solved the issue.
    Thanks.
     
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  9. DIYnot Local

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