Hive Installation

[JS52766]

Hi everyone

Last night i attempted to install a Hive V2. Its a CH one only because I font have a HW tank.

I have gotten as far as installing all the devices, receiver, hub and thermostat. The thermostat is talking to the receiver and when I increase the temperature the boiler sounds like it fires up however the rads do not get hot. I had a mechanical thermostat on the wall next to the boiler and then have a wireless MT10RF. If i increase the temperature on the MT10RF the boiler really fired up and the rads got warm. Any ideas?

Thanks
Jason

 

[stem]

The original controls should have been removed, and the Hive replaced them. However, if the MT10RF wireless thermostat / timer is still wired in, then it should be set to be permanently 'on' and at its maximum setting otherwise it will override the Hive as you seem to have discovered. A drawback here, is that you will need to keep it in operation and change the batteries from time to time.

If you do want to remove the existing controls, it has to be done properly and the wiring modified. It is not possible to simply disconnect them, otherwise the wiring would be left 'open circuit' and the heating would not work.

You also mention a 'mechanical thermostat' is that connected in too?

To be honest, it sound like a bit of a lash up, and it would probably be best if everything was stripped out and then wired up properly from scratch.

You don't give any details of your boiler, (although guessing by the timer probably a Worcester) but if you need to open up the room sealed casing to access the wiring terminals, then that should only be done by a gas safe engineer who can perform the necessary safety checks afterwards.

 

[JS52766]

Hi

Thanks for the swift reply

Iv attached a few pictures. Yes you are correct the boiler is a Worcester boiler.

The black cables coming into the junction box are from a Saurmann pump.

The cables from the mechanical thermostat i have connected to the hive receiver

Thanks
Jason

 

[JS52766]

Found this guide for my boiler https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/wiring-hive-on-worcester-bosch-greenstar-25-si-or-30-si.474730/

If i disconnect the ribbon from the programmer/timer will this make it work?

 

[stem]

First of all. Looking at the wiring, apart from the mains supply, there are only external connections to FS and FR. So it would appear that the mechanical thermostat is wired to these terminals. If so that is a frost thermostat and is only there to provide frost protection as it overrides everything to turns on the heating if the temperature drops near freezing. It is the totally the wrong place to connect the Hive. If so, put the mechanical thermostat back and leave it set to the 5 degree frost protection setting marked with the blue arrow.

As there are presently no wires connected to the boiler terminals for external controls, the MT10RF will be connected to an internal receiver inside the boiler. If so this would need to be decommissioned by a competent person, and then the Hive wired in properly.

The wiring you have posted is not for your boiler. The terminals are not the same. There are lots of Worcester boiler variants. I am worried that you don't have the necessary understanding of what you are doing to do this safely. Please get a professional to do it for you.

 

[JS52766]

ok, so i can see from my boiler there is no connection going external from LR CH and LR HW. Is it not a case that I need to run a wire from LR CH from the boiler to 3: Heating On, on the Hive Receiver?

 

[stem]

OK, now you're talking. My apologies if I misjudged your competence previously, but wiring a Hive to the frost stat terminals is well.........

Anyway, your last post is correct. The existing white link in LR CH would need to be removed as well.

The Hive N & L will also need to be connected to the same 3A fused spur that supplies the boiler, and the Hive live (L) should also be linked to Hive terminal (1) common.

 

[JS52766]

So something like the attached?

 

[stem]

Yes, Hive wiring looks OK to me.

You could use the '230V Out' terminals to connect the Hive N & L to. They are there for your convenience specifically for external control. Having said that, they won't help you that much as the hot water link is in the L already.

The frost thermostat and condense pump should stay as they originally were.

 

[JS52766]

Ok great, thanks for all your help

Going to try it tonight, will report back in the morning

Jason

 

[JS52766]

Hi,

Just wanted to report back that i had success last night. Wired it up as discussed and it worked! Piece of cake

Thanks for all your help stem. Saved me installation costs

Jason

 

[stem]

Well done! In the end you worked most of it out for yourself. And thanks for taking the time to update the thread, it will help anyone finding it later to know it worked.

Edit
Just as a matter of interest what happened to the MT10RF? Is it still there, or did you remove it?

 

[JS52766]

I unplugged the ribbon to the EMS as per the below.