Hive multi zone help on ideal logic 32 s plan?

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Hello I posted a couple weeks ago and didn’t get any replies just posting again I
am seeking a bit of advice on installing hive multi zone with two receivers on an ideal logic 35 combi boiler with 2 zone valves located in the airing cupboard.

Just wanted to make sure where the correct wiring goes.
Currently have two Honeywell 707 thermostats upstairs and downstairs.

I understand the blue wires on the left needs to be removed and hive terminal 3 goes in there.

Hive Nuetral will come from far left blue cables

Hive live will come from the grey and blank cable with sheath?


Am I right in thinking the brown cables linked to orange needs to be removed too as it’s cable from current thermostat?

Your kind help and advice on this will be much appreciated.
 

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I remember this post, but thought I had replied :unsure: Anyway, you need to work out which is a permanent neutral wire, permanent live and switching wires (thermostats). The far left as you’re calling it, that’s a switched live by the looks of it. Colours in a heating system mean nothing, so don’t assume.

Looking at the wiring it appears that the grey from zone valve is to a brown wire - usually permanent live, all blues and sheathed blue grey look like neutral, the 2 switch wires from thermostats appear to be your fat left sleeved brown wires.
 
Hello CWB thanks for taking your time to reply.

So is my understanding correcting where 2 of the brown wires on far left linking to orange wire comes off completely as they are the room thermostat wires

In terms of permanent live are they used in either the orange or the grey? The reason I asked is when I tested it with a electrical tester I was getting a strong king on the 3 brown cables connected to orange and a weak light on the grey connected to the black wire with brown sheath? Is this common?

Also will I need a link wire on the hive side from live terminal to terminal 1? From the permanent live?

I will look forward to your response

Cheers
 
I also drawn up a quick visual diagram of the situation if it helps
 
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I remember this post, but thought I had replied :unsure: Anyway, you need to work out which is a permanent neutral wire, permanent live and switching wires (thermostats). The far left as you’re calling it, that’s a switched live by the looks of it. Colours in a heating system mean nothing, so don’t assume.

Looking at the wiring it appears that the grey from zone valve is to a brown wire - usually permanent live, all blues and sheathed blue grey look like neutral, the 2 switch wires from thermostats appear to be your fat left sleeved brown wires.
Put together a visual diagram to sense check my understanding
 

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I also drawn up a quick visual diagram of the situation if it helps
No, sorry doesn’t help me. No I don’t think you’ve understood what I’ve said. What tester are you using? Sounds like a volt pen or neon screwdrive.
 
No, sorry doesn’t help me. No I don’t think you’ve understood what I’ve said. What tester are you using? Sounds like a volt pen or neon screwdrive.
I do apologise for any confusion, it’s a screwdriver tester I used. I believe the permanent live is going into the grey wires of the vale here
 
I do apologise for any confusion, it’s a screwdriver tester I used. I believe the permanent live is going into the grey wires of the vale here
No need for apologies. I wouldn’t recommend a screwdriver they’re not accurate, and could kill you. Yes it does appear that the permanent live is going to the grey (it usually does).
 
No need for apologies. I wouldn’t recommend a screwdriver they’re not accurate, and could kill you. Yes it does appear that the permanent live is going to the grey (it usually does).
I will get it checked with a multi meter later, is there possibility the perm live could be with brown wires too? Going into the orange wires on the vale? I was just checking if that is also an option
 
No need for apologies. I wouldn’t recommend a screwdriver they’re not accurate, and could kill you. Yes it does appear that the permanent live is going to the grey (it usually does).
I have just checked it with a multi meter

So the brown wires connecting to the orange wires I am getting 230v there when the boiler is off and 0v on the blank wire connecting to the grey wires from the port.

However once I stick the room thermostat up when the boiler kicks in I am getting 230v on both the brown wires and the black wire connecting to the grey wires.

How would you go about this situation? My understand here the brown wires connecting to orange are perm live where 2 of the brown goes into each room thermostat.

I will look forward to your kind reply
 
Yes this seems to be the case, the browns going to orange are permanent live and the grey are switched (it’s the grey and orange that connect in the zone valve). This is why it needs testing. So now you have established permanent live, if the browns go to the room stats you can disconnect those and wire accordingly for your Hives.
 
Yes this seems to be the case, the browns going to orange are permanent live and the grey are switched (it’s the grey and orange that connect in the zone valve). This is why it needs testing. So now you have established permanent live, if the browns go to the room stats you can disconnect those and wire accordingly for your Hives.
Perfect, so in terms of the hive side I connect the perm live to the hive live, would I need a link cable from the hive live to hive 1? And the separate blue cables connected to the brown valve will come out and a new wiring from hive connection goes in there?

Obviously the neutral from the neon goes to hive too?

Just want to sense check it all.

Would you recommend 1mm or 0.75mm sq cable 4 core?
 
Yes, if you’re using a single channel, you’ll need a link between live and common (1). Neutral goes to Neutral, Switched live goes to heating on. Either cable is fine and make sure your fuse rating is 3 Amps.
 
Yes, if you’re using a single channel, you’ll need a link between live and common (1). Neutral goes to Neutral, Switched live goes to heating on. Either cable is fine and make sure your fuse rating is 3 Amps.
Perfect thanks, when you say 3amp fuse rating that’s the cable you are referring to right?
 

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